"Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death"
On 20 March 1775, The Second Virginia Convention convened at St. John's Church in Richmond. They assembled to consider weighty matters concerning the tyranny and oppression of the Crown. Many favored continued conciliatory measures. A thirty-nine year old delegate from Hanover County named Pätrick Henry took a seat in the third pew.
Here sat a man with a burden. He knew he faced "an irresolute body; that he would be opposed by the powerful, wealthy, Tory element among the members. He realized that the Loyalists were insidiously entrenched and the outcome was uncertain. Pätrick Henry's risk was tremendous - one that could easily bring him to the block."1
But Mr. Henry feared not man that can destroy only the body - he feared God who can destroy both body and soul. "Liberty" burned in his heart and flowed through his veins. "Death" was to be preferred before cowering in fear before the British leviathan. Mr. Henry was the archetype Southerner whose motto "Liberty or death, " exhibited a bravery and patriotism seldom seen today.
Here is his famous speech delivered 23 March 1775. Read it and may the words burn deep into your thoughts and meditations:
"Mr. President, no man thinks more highly than I do of the patriotism, as well as abilities, of the very worthy gentlemen who have just addressed the House. But different men often see the same subject in different lights; and, therefore, I hope it will not be thought disrespectful to those gentlemen if, entertaining as I do opinions of a character very opposite to theirs, I shall speak forth my sentiments freely and without reserve. This is no time for ceremony. The question before the House is one of awful moment to this country. For my own part, I consider it as nothing less than a question of freedom or slavery; and in proportion to the magnitude of the subject ought to be the freedom of the debate. It is only in this way that we can hope to arrive at truth, and fulfill the great responsibility which we hold to God and our country. Should I keep back my opinions at such a time, through fear of giving offense, I should consider myself as guilty of treason towards my country, and of an act of disloyalty toward the Majesty of Heaven, which I revere above all earthly kings.
"Mr. President, it is natural for a man to indulge in the illusions of hope. We are apt to shut our eyes against a painful truth, and listen to the song of that siren till she transforms us into beasts. Is this the part of wise men, engaged in a great and arduous struggle for liberty? Are we disposed to be of the number of those who, having eyes, see not, and, having ears, hear not, the things which so nearly concern their temporal salvation? For my part, whatever anguish of spirit it may cost, I am willing to know the whole truth; to know the worst, and to provide for it. I have but one lamp by which my feet are guided, and that is the lamp of experience. I know of no way of judging of the future but by the past. And judging by the past, I wish to know what there has been in the conduct of the British ministry for the last ten years to justify those hopes with which gentlemen have been pleased to solace themselves and the House. Is it that insidious smile with which our petition has been lately received? Trust it not, sir; it will prove to be a snare to your feet. Suffer not yourselves to be betrayed with a kiss. Ask yourselves how this gracious reception of our petition comports with those warlike preparations which cover our waters and darken our land. Are fleets and armies necessary to a work of love and reconciliation? Have we shown ourselves so unwilling to be reconciled that force must be called in to win back our love? Let us not deceive ourselves, sir. These are the instruments of war and subjugation -- the last arguments to which kings resort. I ask gentlemen, sir, what means this martial array, if its purpose be not to force us to submission? Can gentlemen assign any other possible motive for it? Has Great Britain any enemy in this quarter of the world to call for all this accumulation of navies and armies? No, sir, she has none. They are meant for us; they can be meant for no other. They are sent over to bind and rivet upon us those chains which the British Ministry have been so long forging.
"And what have we to oppose them? Shall we try argument? Sir, we have been trying that for the last ten years. Have we anything new to offer upon the subject? Nothing. We have held the subject up in every light of which it is capable; but it has been all in vain. Shall we resort to treaty and humble supplication? What terms shall we find which have not been already exhausted? Let us not, I beseech you, sir, deceive ourselves longer. Sir, we have done everything that could be done to avert the storm which is now coming on. We have petitioned; we have remonstrated; we have supplicated; we have prostrated ourselves before the throne and have implored its interposition to arrest the tyrannical hands of the Ministry and Parliament. Our petitions have been slighted; our remonstrances have produced additional violence and insult; our supplications have been disregarded; and we have been spurned, with contempt, from the foot of the throne. In vain, after these things, may we indulge the fond hope of peace and reconciliation.
"There is no longer any room for hope. If we wish to be free; if we mean to preserve inviolate those inestimable privileges for which we have been so long contending; if we mean not basely to abandon the noble struggle in which we have been so long engaged, and which we have pledged ourselves never to abandon, until the glorious object of our contest shall be obtained; we must fight! I repeat it, sir, we must fight!! An appeal to arms and to the God of hosts is all that is left us! (emphasis added, GC)
"They tell us, sir...that we are weak, unable to cope with so formidable an adversary. But when shall we be stronger? Will it be the next week or the next year? Will it be when we are totally disarmed, and when a British guard shall be stationed in every house? Shall we gather strength by irresolution and inaction? Shall we acquire the means of effectual resistance by lying supinely on our backs and hugging the delusive phantom of hope, until our enemies shall have bound us hand and foot? Sir, we are not weak if we make a proper use of those means which the God of nature has placed in our power. Three millions of people armed in the holy cause of liberty and in such a country as that which we possess are invincible by any force which our enemy can send against us.
"Besides, sir, we shall not fight our battles alone. There is a just God who presides over the destinies of nations, and who will raise up friends to fight our battles for us. The battle, sir, is not to the strong alone; it is to the vigilant, the active, the brave. Besides, sir, we have no election. If we were base enough to desire it, it is now too late to retire from the contest. There is no retreat but in submission and slavery! Our chains are forged. Their clanking may be heard on the plains of Boston! The war is inevitable -- and let it come!! I repeat it, sir, let it come!!!
"It is vain, sir, to extenuate the matter. Gentlemen may cry, peace, peace; but there is no peace. The war is actually begun! The next gale that sweeps from the north will bring to our ears the clash of resounding arms! Our brethren are already in the field! Why stand we here idle? What is it that gentlemen wish? What would they have? Is life so dear or peace so sweet as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery?
"Forbid it, Almighty God -- I know not what course others may take; but as for me -- give me liberty or give me death!"
Remember to vote!!!!!!!!!
The End Is Near
2nd Amendment
A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Saturday, October 30, 2010
An economical battery of guns for the backwoods home by Massad Ayoob Issue #114
I love to read Massad Ayoob and after my post on a what survival guns should you have. I found this and liked it. So give it a read..... And I did get a good bit of my stuff done today, still have lots to do tomorrow.
An economical battery of guns for the backwoods home by Massad Ayoob Issue #114
An economical battery of guns for the backwoods home by Massad Ayoob Issue #114
Friday, October 29, 2010
It's Friday!!!
Lots of good stuff going on this weekend. 1st is working on my shop and moving around some stuff and getting rid of lots of unused items, some will be sold and others will given to goodwill. My plan is to cut down on my storage stuff in the shop by 50%. 2nd I plan to work on my preps this weekend. I would like to make 4-6 more 5 gallon buckets with rice, beans, oats and other items in them. Then I want to clean and store all the camping gear like the chairs, tents, lamps, grills and any other items that need a good cleaning. 3rd I plan to get out to the range this weekend and recheck all my scopes and just get some good shooting in. And after all that if I still have some time I would like to make some more Slinky Antenna's, I have a new one I working on that will work great inside your home or RV. When I get it done I will be giving one away in a contest for someone to try out. The contest will be soon because I coming up to my 500th post on this blog and I will do the contest then.
Everyone have a great weekend and keep up your prepping!!!!! We must be as ready as we can be!
Everyone have a great weekend and keep up your prepping!!!!! We must be as ready as we can be!
Thursday, October 28, 2010
I Like This!!!!!
I was looking around the web the other night and found this and liked it, so I am sharing it with all of you who read my blog.
Why I am a SURVIVALIST
A fireman is a fireman, not because he believes everything will burn, but because he believes much can be saved. Doctors don't believe in death, they believe in life, and a survivalist is not a survivalist because he believes everything must be destroyed and everyone must die, he believes that life and freedom can be saved, if people of good will are prepared. A fireman does not start fires, a doctor does not make disease and a survivalist does not make disaster.
Crime, disease, war, revolution, fire, flood, periodic financial collapse and famine are the results of nature and the nature of man and unfortunately are not within the power of anyone on this earth to prevent.
We all know that the sun will set each day, leaving us in darkness and we all know that warm summers give way to cold winters and that we can do nothing to keep the sun from setting or the cold winds from coming, does this make us pessimistic? I think not! So then, why is the survivalist called a pessimist when he makes ready to face events that are just as much a part of history and nature as the sunset and the changing of the seasons.
Another misconception is that survivalists are predicting world disaster. On the contrary, we seem to be THE OPTIMISTIC MINORITY that is predicting world survival. We are hard pressed to find any well recommended historians, economists, political scientists, sociologists or military strategists that can come up with a scenario that gives even a fifty-fifty chance of avoiding a large scale catastrophe, yet we survivalists dare to be OPTIMISTIC about the future. We survivalists do not need to predict the probability of disaster anymore than we need to predict the sun setting.
Those who criticize survivalists, are like men who refuse to look at a calendar, in the hope that through self-imposed ignorance they can keep from aging another year.
"You survivalists will be disappointed if we don't have a world cataclysm." Here is another accusation that is pure B.S. and I could not think of a milder phrase to describe it. We survivalists have loved ones we don't want to see hurt or killed, we have homes we don't want to see destroyed, we are not tools to think that just because we are survivalists a world cataclysm would be fun for us or that we would not experience danger, loss, hunger, injury, cold or even despair and death.
We have spent time and money to improve our chances for survival and recovery from disaster, but we would have a great celebration if some day we could be assured that we had wasted our time. No, we will not be disappointed if there is no disaster to survive, anymore than the Red Cross is disappointed when there are no floods and storms or the man who buys an insurance policy is disappointed when his house faiIs to burn down.
It may be said that the survivalist would much prefer the pleasant (but unlikely) surprise of being wrong to the (probable) deadly rude awakening that the nonsurvivalist will face if he is wrong.
So, you see the survivalist can not lose because his survival preparations will be of value regardless of what the future has in store. In time of crisis, those who have not prepared to turn to each other, will turn on each other.
It is most regrettable indeed, that many people consider survivalists as a threat and regard them with suspicion and even hostility. This attitude is logically indefensible and is rooted in the nonsurvivalists own sense of fear and guilt. Subconsciously, the nonsurvivalist may hate the survivalist for reminding him of how fragile his lifestyle is.
Now, let's get the facts turned around right. THE MOST DANGEROUS PEOPLE IN THE WORLD TODAY ARE THE NONSURVIVALISTS. Every person who has not made provisions for surviving without food, water, fuel and other essential needs from the outside, is a mortal danger to his neighbors.
What will a man do when he and his family are freezing, hungry, thirsty, sick and starving? He may ask or beg his neighbors for help, but when they have no extra fuel, food, water or medicine to give, will he just go back home to die with his wife and kids? What do you think? We survivalists who stock up on food and other supplies, now do a favor to society because what we now buy is replaced on the shelves, so there will be that much more available in an emergency. We survivalists won't be looting and killing for food. We won't be a burden on the medical facilities or a danger to the police. Since we will be able to turn to each other, we will not need to turn on anyone and we may be able to help at least some.
Survival preparation should be regarded as a social obligation, one that every individual owes to his family and community and his nation. The nonsurvivalist is simply a poor and irresponsible citizen.
So the reality is, that survivalists are optimistic, self- reliant individuals, who cannot help but see the imperative of preparing for the worst possible events, while hoping sincerely, that they won't happen. Today's survivalist is an asset, to his community and to the world and should be proud to be called SURVIVALIST.
By: CROW
From: Australia
Found at http://www.godlikeproductions.com/forum1/message932531/pg1
Why I am a SURVIVALIST
A fireman is a fireman, not because he believes everything will burn, but because he believes much can be saved. Doctors don't believe in death, they believe in life, and a survivalist is not a survivalist because he believes everything must be destroyed and everyone must die, he believes that life and freedom can be saved, if people of good will are prepared. A fireman does not start fires, a doctor does not make disease and a survivalist does not make disaster.
Crime, disease, war, revolution, fire, flood, periodic financial collapse and famine are the results of nature and the nature of man and unfortunately are not within the power of anyone on this earth to prevent.
We all know that the sun will set each day, leaving us in darkness and we all know that warm summers give way to cold winters and that we can do nothing to keep the sun from setting or the cold winds from coming, does this make us pessimistic? I think not! So then, why is the survivalist called a pessimist when he makes ready to face events that are just as much a part of history and nature as the sunset and the changing of the seasons.
Another misconception is that survivalists are predicting world disaster. On the contrary, we seem to be THE OPTIMISTIC MINORITY that is predicting world survival. We are hard pressed to find any well recommended historians, economists, political scientists, sociologists or military strategists that can come up with a scenario that gives even a fifty-fifty chance of avoiding a large scale catastrophe, yet we survivalists dare to be OPTIMISTIC about the future. We survivalists do not need to predict the probability of disaster anymore than we need to predict the sun setting.
Those who criticize survivalists, are like men who refuse to look at a calendar, in the hope that through self-imposed ignorance they can keep from aging another year.
"You survivalists will be disappointed if we don't have a world cataclysm." Here is another accusation that is pure B.S. and I could not think of a milder phrase to describe it. We survivalists have loved ones we don't want to see hurt or killed, we have homes we don't want to see destroyed, we are not tools to think that just because we are survivalists a world cataclysm would be fun for us or that we would not experience danger, loss, hunger, injury, cold or even despair and death.
We have spent time and money to improve our chances for survival and recovery from disaster, but we would have a great celebration if some day we could be assured that we had wasted our time. No, we will not be disappointed if there is no disaster to survive, anymore than the Red Cross is disappointed when there are no floods and storms or the man who buys an insurance policy is disappointed when his house faiIs to burn down.
It may be said that the survivalist would much prefer the pleasant (but unlikely) surprise of being wrong to the (probable) deadly rude awakening that the nonsurvivalist will face if he is wrong.
So, you see the survivalist can not lose because his survival preparations will be of value regardless of what the future has in store. In time of crisis, those who have not prepared to turn to each other, will turn on each other.
It is most regrettable indeed, that many people consider survivalists as a threat and regard them with suspicion and even hostility. This attitude is logically indefensible and is rooted in the nonsurvivalists own sense of fear and guilt. Subconsciously, the nonsurvivalist may hate the survivalist for reminding him of how fragile his lifestyle is.
Now, let's get the facts turned around right. THE MOST DANGEROUS PEOPLE IN THE WORLD TODAY ARE THE NONSURVIVALISTS. Every person who has not made provisions for surviving without food, water, fuel and other essential needs from the outside, is a mortal danger to his neighbors.
What will a man do when he and his family are freezing, hungry, thirsty, sick and starving? He may ask or beg his neighbors for help, but when they have no extra fuel, food, water or medicine to give, will he just go back home to die with his wife and kids? What do you think? We survivalists who stock up on food and other supplies, now do a favor to society because what we now buy is replaced on the shelves, so there will be that much more available in an emergency. We survivalists won't be looting and killing for food. We won't be a burden on the medical facilities or a danger to the police. Since we will be able to turn to each other, we will not need to turn on anyone and we may be able to help at least some.
Survival preparation should be regarded as a social obligation, one that every individual owes to his family and community and his nation. The nonsurvivalist is simply a poor and irresponsible citizen.
So the reality is, that survivalists are optimistic, self- reliant individuals, who cannot help but see the imperative of preparing for the worst possible events, while hoping sincerely, that they won't happen. Today's survivalist is an asset, to his community and to the world and should be proud to be called SURVIVALIST.
By: CROW
From: Australia
Found at http://www.godlikeproductions.com/forum1/message932531/pg1
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Survival Guns, What To Have And What You Need?
I see the people at survival forums post a question like this and get tore apart. I don't have the answer to this question because each persons type of survival or area of survival is a little different. So I will post some of the guns I like and then ask you to comment with some of the guns you like and why they are good for survival.When I think about survival guns for outdoors men, I think of three scenarios-the first involves using the firearm as an audible signaling device. The second involves providing meat to stay alive. And the third involves self-defense. Taking things in that order (which may or may not be the order of importance in any given survival situation), we've tried to define what makes a good survival gun. I think self-defense is the most important because I live in a small town and if TSHTF defense will be on top of my list then hunting for food.
* Ruger Mini-14 in .223 are small, lightweight semi-automatic carbines and a great survival gun. Some people don't like this gun but I don't know why.
* The Henry U.S. Survival. This take down .22 weighs just
2½ pounds. It breaks down and all parts fit in the hollow stock.
* Springfield Armory M-6 Scout. This fold-down model is also very compact and offers both .22 and .410 barrels.
* KEL-TEC SU-16 Rifle. This gas-operated, self-loading rifle in .223 Rem. also features a fold-down stock for easy
storage. The stock holds spare magazines and the for end folds down to form a bipod for increased accuracy.
* Marlin 70PSS Papoose. This stainless, seven-shot, semi-auto .22 offers a take down barrel and synthetic stock. It comes in a padded carrying case.
* New England Firearms' Versa-Pack. This rifle has interchangeable barrels that easily swap over from .22 rimfire to .410 shotgun.
* Savage 24F Predator. This over/under combination gun is available with a .22 Hornet, .223, .17 HMR or .30/30 over a 12-gauge barrel or .22 LR, .22 Hornet, .223 or .17 HMR over a 20-gauge barrel. The take down action makes storage easy.
* Winchester M-9422 and Marlin M-1894PG. Lightweight lever guns like these offer lots of magazine capacity and the versatility of using either bird shot loads or standard bullets.
* Thompson/Center's G2 Contender. This single-shot is known for accuracy. It comes in a number of different
caliber options, is easily scoped and stows effortlessly.
* Smith & Wesson AirLite SC Revolver. Smith offers a whole family of AirLite revolvers in a number of calibers and configurations. Models like the M-386 Mountain Lite would also be an excellent choice for survival use.
* Taurus M617SS2C. The mini titanium revolver in .357 Magnum is a standout candidate for survival because it
offers a seven-round cylinder instead of the traditional
six-shot yet weighs less than 20 ounces.
* Glock 17 or 19. These polymer-framed semi-autos can stand up to practically any abuse from Mother Nature and still function. They also offer plenty of magazine capacity in a small, compact package.
* Benelli Nova Pump H2O. This gun features nickel-plated parts and is capable of handling just about any shotgun ammo you can feed through it, from 3½-inch magnum shotshells to slugs.
* Winchester Model 1300 Coastal Marine. This stainless-steel pump is a rugged workhorse available in 12-gauge with seven-shot capacity and 3-inch chamber.
* Mossberg Model 500 Pump Action. Available in synthetic stock with a Marinecote finish, Mariner pumps are ideal for use on boats and are the choice of many saltwater skippers.
* Remington Model 870 Marine Magnum. This version of the 870 is similar to the classic Model 870 Wingmaster,
except the metal parts are plated with electroless nickel. It has a black synthetic for end and stock.
Post a comment and like me know what you like or don't like. I only own a few of the above.
* Ruger Mini-14 in .223 are small, lightweight semi-automatic carbines and a great survival gun. Some people don't like this gun but I don't know why.
* The Henry U.S. Survival. This take down .22 weighs just
2½ pounds. It breaks down and all parts fit in the hollow stock.
* Springfield Armory M-6 Scout. This fold-down model is also very compact and offers both .22 and .410 barrels.
* KEL-TEC SU-16 Rifle. This gas-operated, self-loading rifle in .223 Rem. also features a fold-down stock for easy
storage. The stock holds spare magazines and the for end folds down to form a bipod for increased accuracy.
* Marlin 70PSS Papoose. This stainless, seven-shot, semi-auto .22 offers a take down barrel and synthetic stock. It comes in a padded carrying case.
* New England Firearms' Versa-Pack. This rifle has interchangeable barrels that easily swap over from .22 rimfire to .410 shotgun.
* Savage 24F Predator. This over/under combination gun is available with a .22 Hornet, .223, .17 HMR or .30/30 over a 12-gauge barrel or .22 LR, .22 Hornet, .223 or .17 HMR over a 20-gauge barrel. The take down action makes storage easy.
* Winchester M-9422 and Marlin M-1894PG. Lightweight lever guns like these offer lots of magazine capacity and the versatility of using either bird shot loads or standard bullets.
* Thompson/Center's G2 Contender. This single-shot is known for accuracy. It comes in a number of different
caliber options, is easily scoped and stows effortlessly.
* Smith & Wesson AirLite SC Revolver. Smith offers a whole family of AirLite revolvers in a number of calibers and configurations. Models like the M-386 Mountain Lite would also be an excellent choice for survival use.
* Taurus M617SS2C. The mini titanium revolver in .357 Magnum is a standout candidate for survival because it
offers a seven-round cylinder instead of the traditional
six-shot yet weighs less than 20 ounces.
* Glock 17 or 19. These polymer-framed semi-autos can stand up to practically any abuse from Mother Nature and still function. They also offer plenty of magazine capacity in a small, compact package.
* Benelli Nova Pump H2O. This gun features nickel-plated parts and is capable of handling just about any shotgun ammo you can feed through it, from 3½-inch magnum shotshells to slugs.
* Winchester Model 1300 Coastal Marine. This stainless-steel pump is a rugged workhorse available in 12-gauge with seven-shot capacity and 3-inch chamber.
* Mossberg Model 500 Pump Action. Available in synthetic stock with a Marinecote finish, Mariner pumps are ideal for use on boats and are the choice of many saltwater skippers.
* Remington Model 870 Marine Magnum. This version of the 870 is similar to the classic Model 870 Wingmaster,
except the metal parts are plated with electroless nickel. It has a black synthetic for end and stock.
Post a comment and like me know what you like or don't like. I only own a few of the above.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Food Prices Expected to Rise Sharply - CNBC
I found this and it's a good read. But we all knew this was coming and it will get worse, a lot worse.
Food Prices Expected to Rise Sharply - CNBC
Food Prices Expected to Rise Sharply - CNBC
Monday, October 25, 2010
Thinking About The Rest Of This Year
I find myself thinking more and more of the day we have ahead. I'm not sure what is down the road for us as a country but I am sure it's not going to be good. And I am sure that things are not going to be getting any better. I see the job market getting worse and more and more people going without a job. I think this Christmas shopping season will be the worst in many years and a lot of stores will close after this bad season of non-shopping. Here at our house we have talked about it and are cutting down our shopping for this Christmas. Our kids are 24, 24 and 20 so we are not talking about young kids. We are all making a small list of needed items that only cost $20 to $35 each and then we can pick for the list of items. Me and my wife will be as one so the kids can shop for both of us at the same time so our list is one list for both of us, I'm sure they need to save money to. And me and the wife talked and we want stuff on our prep list. We plan to get our kids one of the items off there list and one extra small item and a gift card for $25 from the store they like or the mall. We plan to go small and I'm sure many others are doing the same. For all three kids we are only going to spend $250 and for the few other family we will keep our cost down to $125, so with Christmas Cards and gifts we are only putting out $400 this year. Most years it's 3-4 times that amount, but not anymore from this year on we will go small and get needed items. I'm sure Christmas will be just as fun as always if not much better, because when you take the rush and fuss out of it Christmas is all about family and love.
Don't stop prepping and stay ready, because our time is short.
Don't stop prepping and stay ready, because our time is short.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Remember To Vote!!!!
It's not like we can trust any of the fools running for office, but we can get the Damn Fools out and replace them with a better fool or maybe we can find a few real Patriots to vote into office. It would be a nice country if we could get 1/3rd of the leaders in office to follow The Constitution and stick to true Freedoms for us Americans. I'm sure we never will get even close to 1/3rd.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Weekend Of Work And Prepping
I work this weekend but at the same time I am prepping around my working. I got some more ammo today at Wal-mart. And some lamp oil to store for later. I plan to get a container to put some K-1 kerosene in so I can use it in my lamps I have. I hear it works well and burns clean or as clean as the lamp oil you get at the store. I am trying to get as much done as I can with the time we have left, and I'm not sure how long that is. A week, two weeks, a month or 3, 6, 9 months I don't know. But I plan to work on my preps till I can't anymore and I plan to buy ammo every time I see some even if it's only a box or two. If I can pick up five boxes of ammo a week in 3 months I will have 60 boxes. It helps to get a little at a time because over time you build up your stocks and before you know it you have a small stockpile of needed items. I still use the coupons from the Sunday paper and get the can foods and dry goods with coupons and at times I even get items for free or almost free; It works very good and I plan to kick it into high gear next month because over the holidays you get five times more coupons in the paper. Use your tools to shop smart and make a plan and use the ads to shop for the best price. With a little time you can stock up a nice little stockpile.
Keep up the prepping and stand ready.......our time is short!
Keep up the prepping and stand ready.......our time is short!
Friday, October 22, 2010
Wood Burning
Wood Burning Basics
Burn Only Dry, Seasoned Firewood
Freshly cut wood contains up to 80% moisture, and must be "seasoned" (dried to 20-25% moisture content) before burning. Wood containing more than 25% moisture is "wet" or "green", and should never be burned in a fireplace or woodstove. If exposed to rain, a fallen tree will wet-rot before it ever dries enough to be used for fuel. To properly season firewood, cut it into stove-sized pieces and stack it so air can circulate and carry away the moisture as it evaporates through both ends of each piece. The woodpile must be sheltered to prevent rainwater from being re-absorbed, which reverses the drying process: firewood that is exposed to rain will rapidly become just as wet as it was when freshly cut. Wood must be cut into pieces and stacked out of the rain for at least 6-9 months to season properly. If no seasoned wood can be found, high-density compressed sawdust logs make an excellent substitute. Avoid burning mill ends in woodstoves, as the exhaust from even "untreated" mill ends has shown itself to be tremendously corrosive to metal.
Don't Let Creosote Build Up In The Chimney
Creosote is a highly combustible substance which condenses in liquid form as wood exhaust cools in the chimney, and then solidifies as it dries. If ignited, creosote can burn for days at temperatures exceeding 2,000 degrees, which is hot enough to destroy the chimney and ignite surrounding combustibles. Creosote is very caustic; if allowed to accumulate, it will significantly shorten the lifetime of the stovepipe and chimney. A seasoned-wood fire that is given enough oxygen for proper combustion will reduce creosote formation in two ways, by consuming more of the wood gases while at the same time sending more heat up the chimney to reduce flue gas cooling.
Practice Proper Chimney Maintenance
Creosote should be removed from the chimney before buildup in the flue exceeds 1/4" thickness. Chimneys which vent properly operated woodstoves generally require cleaning once per year. If green or wet wood is burned, or if the fire is allowed to smolder, the chimney will require cleaning much more often, and should be inspected frequently. Creosote sticks like glue, and must be removed with a tight-fitting steel brush. Rattling tire chains down the chimney or pulling a bag of straw through the flue won't remove creosote, and neither will a chimney fire. Chimney fires burn away the resinous portion of the creosote, but the sooty husk remains: if this husk isn't removed after a chimney fire, smoke will filter through it, rapidly re-depositing fresh liquid resin. In a very short time, the chimney will be as bad as it was before the fire.
Follow These Woodburning Tips
If steam bubbles and hisses out of the end grain as the firewood heats up on the fire, the wood is wet or green, and needs to be seasoned longer before burning.
If a wood supplier advertises his wood as "seasoned", or claims that it has been "down" for a year or two or ten, be skeptical. Ask if the wood has been cut into pieces and stacked out of the rain for at least 9 months. If it hasn't, it isn't ready to burn.
Shelter the woodpile from the rain, but don't cover it completely with plastic tarps or store it in an enclosed shed or garage; air circulation is necessary to ensure proper seasoning.
Never burn garbage, mill ends, or individually wrapped compressed sawdust logs in a woodstove. These contain chemicals which, when burned, are highly corrosive to metal.
Unless the stove is EPA approved, never try to make a load of fuel burn longer than 6-8 hours. EPA approved appliances have built-in safeguards to prevent smoldering, but many older airtight can be adjusted to smolder along for extended periods, resulting in heavy creosote deposits.
Operate woodstoves with their draft control wide open for 20-30 minutes each time firewood is added, or until the fresh load is totally engulfed in flames. This will send heat up the flue to help solidify the liquid creosote deposited by the previous load, while kindling the wood to start gasification of the resins for efficient burning.
NEVER try to clean a chimney by deliberately starting a chimney fire. Have the chimney professionally cleaned and inspected at least once per year.
If a chimney fire occurs, close the draft control on the stove completely to quench the supply of oxygen, and call the fire department immediately. Then, make sure the chimney is thoroughly cleaned as soon as possible.
By: Tom Oyen
Burn Only Dry, Seasoned Firewood
Freshly cut wood contains up to 80% moisture, and must be "seasoned" (dried to 20-25% moisture content) before burning. Wood containing more than 25% moisture is "wet" or "green", and should never be burned in a fireplace or woodstove. If exposed to rain, a fallen tree will wet-rot before it ever dries enough to be used for fuel. To properly season firewood, cut it into stove-sized pieces and stack it so air can circulate and carry away the moisture as it evaporates through both ends of each piece. The woodpile must be sheltered to prevent rainwater from being re-absorbed, which reverses the drying process: firewood that is exposed to rain will rapidly become just as wet as it was when freshly cut. Wood must be cut into pieces and stacked out of the rain for at least 6-9 months to season properly. If no seasoned wood can be found, high-density compressed sawdust logs make an excellent substitute. Avoid burning mill ends in woodstoves, as the exhaust from even "untreated" mill ends has shown itself to be tremendously corrosive to metal.
Don't Let Creosote Build Up In The Chimney
Creosote is a highly combustible substance which condenses in liquid form as wood exhaust cools in the chimney, and then solidifies as it dries. If ignited, creosote can burn for days at temperatures exceeding 2,000 degrees, which is hot enough to destroy the chimney and ignite surrounding combustibles. Creosote is very caustic; if allowed to accumulate, it will significantly shorten the lifetime of the stovepipe and chimney. A seasoned-wood fire that is given enough oxygen for proper combustion will reduce creosote formation in two ways, by consuming more of the wood gases while at the same time sending more heat up the chimney to reduce flue gas cooling.
Practice Proper Chimney Maintenance
Creosote should be removed from the chimney before buildup in the flue exceeds 1/4" thickness. Chimneys which vent properly operated woodstoves generally require cleaning once per year. If green or wet wood is burned, or if the fire is allowed to smolder, the chimney will require cleaning much more often, and should be inspected frequently. Creosote sticks like glue, and must be removed with a tight-fitting steel brush. Rattling tire chains down the chimney or pulling a bag of straw through the flue won't remove creosote, and neither will a chimney fire. Chimney fires burn away the resinous portion of the creosote, but the sooty husk remains: if this husk isn't removed after a chimney fire, smoke will filter through it, rapidly re-depositing fresh liquid resin. In a very short time, the chimney will be as bad as it was before the fire.
Follow These Woodburning Tips
If steam bubbles and hisses out of the end grain as the firewood heats up on the fire, the wood is wet or green, and needs to be seasoned longer before burning.
If a wood supplier advertises his wood as "seasoned", or claims that it has been "down" for a year or two or ten, be skeptical. Ask if the wood has been cut into pieces and stacked out of the rain for at least 9 months. If it hasn't, it isn't ready to burn.
Shelter the woodpile from the rain, but don't cover it completely with plastic tarps or store it in an enclosed shed or garage; air circulation is necessary to ensure proper seasoning.
Never burn garbage, mill ends, or individually wrapped compressed sawdust logs in a woodstove. These contain chemicals which, when burned, are highly corrosive to metal.
Unless the stove is EPA approved, never try to make a load of fuel burn longer than 6-8 hours. EPA approved appliances have built-in safeguards to prevent smoldering, but many older airtight can be adjusted to smolder along for extended periods, resulting in heavy creosote deposits.
Operate woodstoves with their draft control wide open for 20-30 minutes each time firewood is added, or until the fresh load is totally engulfed in flames. This will send heat up the flue to help solidify the liquid creosote deposited by the previous load, while kindling the wood to start gasification of the resins for efficient burning.
NEVER try to clean a chimney by deliberately starting a chimney fire. Have the chimney professionally cleaned and inspected at least once per year.
If a chimney fire occurs, close the draft control on the stove completely to quench the supply of oxygen, and call the fire department immediately. Then, make sure the chimney is thoroughly cleaned as soon as possible.
By: Tom Oyen
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Survival Communications
Following either a man made or natural disaster, normal methods of communication are frequently damaged, or clogged with calls. Preparing in advance can lessen the stress of the situation and improve your chance of survival. Many survivalists are searching for a reliable means of communication and thus far have not found the answer. Many others place communications very low on the list of priorities. When times are tough and the systems currently in place are no longer functioning the survivor must be prepared to provide this most basic essential for himself. In my case, a reliable communication system is equal in importance to guns, ammo and a years supply of food. I have two handheld CB's and two sets of two way radios (Motorola SX600) and I have a good amount of batteries for both sets and I have a small solar charger to recharge them. Now if I'm hit with an EMP I don't think they will work but I do keep a set of four Cobra (CXT90) radios in a ammo box without the batteries in them. Not sure if this will help or not I did line the ammo box with rubber that is 1/4" thick with a hope that it would stop the radio's from being messed up. I hope we never get hit with an EMP but you never know. We have cell phones with a crank charger, but if TSHTF I'm sure cell phones will be dead or so messed up you can't use them. We have a few short wave radio's and a few AM/FM ones to. I keep a small one of each in the ammo can with the Cobra radio's just in case. As it stands I have 8 two way radio's to use after the SHTF. What are your plans to communicate after an event of doom, or do you have one? If not you should start a plan and in the least of this you need a shot wave radio or two and two is always better.
Keep up your prepping and keep your eye's and ears open to the coming collapse. Our time is short!
Life goes on.......Will you?
Keep up your prepping and keep your eye's and ears open to the coming collapse. Our time is short!
Life goes on.......Will you?
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
H.R. 4646 CHECK THIS OUT!!!!!
You need to check this out. I never even knew about this till a friend e-mailed it to me today. If this happens it looks like every time you but in or take money out of the bank they will TAX YOU 1%, this is BullShit!!! This country is going down fast! I feel the collapse around the bend. Get you and your family ready ASAP!!!
H. R. 4646
To establish a fee on transactions which would eliminate the national
debt and replace the income tax on individuals.
Here is the link:
http://frwebgate2.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/TEXTgate.cgi?WAISdocID=OuYrlM/4/1/0&WAISaction=retrieve
H. R. 4646
To establish a fee on transactions which would eliminate the national
debt and replace the income tax on individuals.
Here is the link:
http://frwebgate2.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/TEXTgate.cgi?WAISdocID=OuYrlM/4/1/0&WAISaction=retrieve
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Will Americans Follow French Example Of Mass Civil Unrest?
I saw this at infowars.com today and I ask the same question. Will Americans wake up and make a stand? I say yes and no, so let me explain. I know a few Americans like the good people of the prepper world will never just lay down and let the Government walk over them, and a small few outside the world of survival will wake up. Some of them in time and others to late, but just the same it will be a very small group of Americans. Then that leaves the mass group of fools who will drink the Kool-Aid and like it. It all comes down to just one thing and that is that 95% of the people in this country will do what they are told to do by the leaders of this country. You will only see the people in the streets fighting for rights when it's way to late to make a difference. By the time the people take to the streets to fight for freedom the Police State will have them right where they want them. I feel that very few will see the light before it's to late and the NWO and this fake government will take the ball a run with it. I know a collapse is on it's way and I feel it in my bones. I think time is short and prepping is the only way to survive. We must stock up on food, water, guns, ammo and needed medical supplies so we can fight for freedom and try to take back this country from the fools who have high jacked it. When we store food, water and seeds we are giving ourselves a chance for survival and with our guns and ammo we are making sure that no one can take that chance from us without a fight. Make your stand for freedom and get ready for the fight of your life.
Life goes on.......Will you?
Life goes on.......Will you?
Monday, October 18, 2010
Cheap And Fast Stove For SHTF Event
The Hobo Stove
Take a gallon paint can (exact size not important)
Cut holes in sides of can as im photo.
Chuck anything combustible in and light it up.
The air flows in the bottom hole, and the aerodynamics of the can suck the exhaust out of the top holes. This forms a vicious through draught, and the fire burns almost white hot in a strong wind! It also uses very little fuel. Fire temperature can be controlled be turning can away from the wind a bit, or by obstructing the inlet hole.
Put a pan directly on the top of the can without the can lid (unless you are very fussy about carbon deposits on your pan) for maximum heat transfer. Or to bake, put lid on can, and baking receptacle on lid. Alternatively use a large lidded tin, like a biscuit tin, directly on the can, supporting the item to be baked above the bottom of the tin, so it bakes in the distributed temperature of the tin rather than the direct heat on the base.
These things are unbelievably effective, dirt-cheap and fun to make. You can easily make one on the fly with a Swiss Army knife and a tin you pick up. You will probably find yourself making lots of different designs just for the hell of it!! They are also useful in that you can burn up your camp rubbish to cook your next meal!
Info from: http://www.i4at.org/surv/hobostv.htm
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Working On A Few Things
I have a few things to do today, 1st is make some more Slinky Antenna's and 2nd to work on my prep's a little. I plan to get a few more 5 gallon buckets done. I'm not sure what I will buy to but in them I will look around at the store and make up my mind later. I got a little time in at the range this weekend but just with the handguns, but trigger time is trigger time and I love it every time I get out and shoot. I will pick up a little more ammo today at wal-mart and look for some good sale items. Today is one of the first days this fall where it's not in the 80's or 90's it feels good outside at first light today it was in the 50's and I love it.
We all know that a collapse is coming and we all know we need to prep...... So prep and prep like your life is on the line because brother and sister I tell you it is on the line. Life goes on.......Will you?
We all know that a collapse is coming and we all know we need to prep...... So prep and prep like your life is on the line because brother and sister I tell you it is on the line. Life goes on.......Will you?
Friday, October 15, 2010
Easing Colds With Essentials Oils
Add oils to a tub of warm/hot water and mix well.
Cold Care Bath
This pungent blend opens the nose and soothes aching muscles. It is effective when a cold is coming on. Before using, you should apply it to a small patch of skin on the soft side of the arm to test for sensitivity.
5 Drops eucalyptus
2 Drops peppermint
2 Drops Lavender
Chest Cold Care Bath
This blend is useful for that congested, tight feeling in the chest that often accompanies a cold or flu.
3 Drops Frankincense
3 Drops Hyssop
6 Drops Eucalyptus
If this is to strong you can add a drop or two of Jasmine absolute to sweeten it to your liking.
Cold Care Bath
This pungent blend opens the nose and soothes aching muscles. It is effective when a cold is coming on. Before using, you should apply it to a small patch of skin on the soft side of the arm to test for sensitivity.
5 Drops eucalyptus
2 Drops peppermint
2 Drops Lavender
Chest Cold Care Bath
This blend is useful for that congested, tight feeling in the chest that often accompanies a cold or flu.
3 Drops Frankincense
3 Drops Hyssop
6 Drops Eucalyptus
If this is to strong you can add a drop or two of Jasmine absolute to sweeten it to your liking.
How To Sharpen Tools
Keeping tools sharp saves time and energy.
When youíre in a hurry to get your pruning work done, you may not want to take the extra few minutes needed to stop and sharpen your tools. But itís well worth the effort for two reasons:
1) Your work will go faster and easier with sharpened tools.
2) The clean cuts you get with sharpened tools are healthier for your plants and trees.
Immediately after being cut, a plant oozes sap or resin, which dries to create a protective shield. But thatís just the beginning of the healing process. The plant also diverts energy from its growth to the damaged area while the wound is healing. Obviously, then, you want to help ensure that the tree will heal as quickly as possible. One way to do this is to make sure you create a smooth surface by a clean cut using a sharpened tool. Not only will the plant heal more quickly, and thus begin growing sooner, but it will be exposed to less damage from diseases, insects, fungi and weather extremes.
Following these steps will help you learn the proper way, then, to sharpen your pruning tools.
Step 1: Clean the blades
Whatever type of pruning tool you are using, clean the blade with a stiff brush and soapy water to remove any rust, clumped dirt or other debris. Dip the pruners in a solvent, such as kerosene, to clean off any sap. If youíve used your tools on evergreens, be sure to clean off the pitch residue using either oil or kerosene, too. After drying them, wipe the blades with a light coat of motor oil.
Step 2: Examine the sharpness
Examine the blade edge to determine the correct sharpening angle (usually about 10 to 15 degrees) (see Photo 1, at left). Itís also a good idea to check the manufacturerís guidelines for more specific sharpening instructions and cautions. Remember, for an anvil-type pruner, youíll sharpen only one blade but you must sharpen that blade on both sides.
The choice of sharpening tools is largely a matter of preference:
* Whetstones, the most common choice, offer many gradations and sizes, though you may find that a longer one is easier to work with.
* A diamond-coated flat file requires only water for lubrication, remains flat for fast sharpening and is durable enough to last a lifetime.
* A sharpening steel is useful for finishing or for a quick fix.
* Grinding stones require extra caution because they transfer friction heat that can affect the metal temper, making it more brittle.
Because the use of whetstones is the most common of these four types, weíll describe that technique in detail here.
Step 3: Begin grinding the blades
Start with a medium-grain whetstone (see Photo 2, opposite page, top). Thoroughly wet the stone by soaking it in water or a lightweight motor oil. (For an even lighter finish, some people prefer using a vegetable oil.) Because water quickly evaporates, oil is usually a better choice. It will not only act as a lubricant but carry away grit during the sharpening process.
To maintain the correct angle, press the blade against the concave side of the stone while sharpening. Use numerous smooth strokes, moving the blade in one direction toward the tipóas if you are trying to shave off a thin slice from the whetstone. Donít press too hard.
For every 10 strokes to the outer bevel, apply one stroke to the inner angle.
Keep the stone wet by periodically applying more water or oil. (Donít switch between the two, however. If you start with oil, continue using oil.)
If the blade has a nick, use a file to remove the bent metal piece. If it has multiple nicks, you may need to start the sharpening process with a coarser stone.
Step 4: Smooth the edges
Once youíve achieved the proper angle and sharpness, move to using a finer-grain whetstone and continue sharpening until you achieve a razor-sharp edge. Donít reduce the beveled edge to less than 1-mm thickness. A finer edge will not increase sharpening ability but will make the blade more fragile and prone to damage or breakage.
Step 5: Test the sharpness
You can conduct a preliminary test without having to make a trip outside. Simply hold the cutting edge up to a light source. If you can see light reflecting off the blade edge, itís not yet adequately sharpened.
Once the tool passes the light-reflection test, youíre ready for the ultimate test of trying it on the size of branch it is designed to cut (see Photo 3, at middle right). If youíve sharpened the blades properly, they will make clean, easy cuts. If the blades pull or catch, theyíre not sharp enough. In that case, continue sharpening with the fine whetstone or switch to an extra-fine stone. Retest as necessary, again being careful not to over-sharpen the blades.
Step 6: Add a coat of oil
Finish off the blades by rubbing a light coat of oil them (see Photo 4, bottom right). Remember: dirt that sticks to your tools acts as a sponge, collecting moisture and causing rust. So be sure to keep dirt off your tools when theyíre not in use.
When sharpening other types of tools, you may need to make some modification of these steps. For example, when sharpening anvil-type pruners or clippers, sharpen only one blade but on both sides. Avoid putting a curve on the bladeís edge. Unless the edge is perfectly straight, it wonít strike true against the flat anvil, and strands of plant tissue will cling to the blade after each cut.
Before sharpening shears, you might find it easier to take them apart. Keep in mind that regrinding blades usually is not recommended. Doing so tends to change the cutting angle and destroy the fluting. Plus, regrinding can create a convex cutting edge that leads to poor shearing action and difficulty in cutting.
For scissor-action "bypass" lopping shears, sharpen only the outside surface of each blade. This will maintain the cutting surface so the blades will cut cleanly as they slide past each other. Remember that the inside blade surfaces need to remain flat, so you should clean them but not sharpen them.
When youíre sharpening your tools, itís also a good idea to check the tension screw between the blades. If needed, adjust the screw to allow more freedom of movement while still ensuring that the blades are close enough together to work properly.
What if you have a saw that needs sharpening? Thatís a tedious job that takes special skills and special equipment, so youíll most likely want to leave it to a professional. Check the Yellow Pages under "Sharpening services" or try a local hardware store.
After youíve sharpened a tool several times, you may notice that the cutting angle is becoming rounded (an edge that is more than a 90-degree angle). At this point, the blades start working with a crushing action instead of a clipping action. This indicates the blade is worn out, and itís time to replace it or the entire tool.
Protect your investment in quality tools and limit the need for sharpening by performing routine maintenance between uses. Find a handy, easy-to-reach spot to hang up a rag thatís dry on one end and has oil on the other. Use it to wipe off your tools, keeping them clean and oiled after youíre done using them. Itís especially important to do this small task before putting away your tools for the season.
Another handy trick is to keep a 5-gallon bucket filled with coarse builderís sand in your garage or tool shed. Dip the metal blades of each tool into the sand and pull them up and down several times. This will remove any mud or clinging soil. Next, use a wire brush or steel wool to take off any rust or other particles of debris that remain. You also can pour some motor oil into the bucket of sand so that, when dipping them in the sand to clean them, you give them a coating of oil.
Despite these recommendations, if you still donít lubricate your tools regularly, at least do so at the end of the season, applying a light coat of oil to the blades. Also protect wooden-handled tools with linseed oil or a coat of varnish. And lubricate any moving parts. Then store tools in a dry place. By following these steps, your tools will be ready whenever you are, any time of the year.
By Greg Stephens
When youíre in a hurry to get your pruning work done, you may not want to take the extra few minutes needed to stop and sharpen your tools. But itís well worth the effort for two reasons:
1) Your work will go faster and easier with sharpened tools.
2) The clean cuts you get with sharpened tools are healthier for your plants and trees.
Immediately after being cut, a plant oozes sap or resin, which dries to create a protective shield. But thatís just the beginning of the healing process. The plant also diverts energy from its growth to the damaged area while the wound is healing. Obviously, then, you want to help ensure that the tree will heal as quickly as possible. One way to do this is to make sure you create a smooth surface by a clean cut using a sharpened tool. Not only will the plant heal more quickly, and thus begin growing sooner, but it will be exposed to less damage from diseases, insects, fungi and weather extremes.
Following these steps will help you learn the proper way, then, to sharpen your pruning tools.
Step 1: Clean the blades
Whatever type of pruning tool you are using, clean the blade with a stiff brush and soapy water to remove any rust, clumped dirt or other debris. Dip the pruners in a solvent, such as kerosene, to clean off any sap. If youíve used your tools on evergreens, be sure to clean off the pitch residue using either oil or kerosene, too. After drying them, wipe the blades with a light coat of motor oil.
Step 2: Examine the sharpness
Examine the blade edge to determine the correct sharpening angle (usually about 10 to 15 degrees) (see Photo 1, at left). Itís also a good idea to check the manufacturerís guidelines for more specific sharpening instructions and cautions. Remember, for an anvil-type pruner, youíll sharpen only one blade but you must sharpen that blade on both sides.
The choice of sharpening tools is largely a matter of preference:
* Whetstones, the most common choice, offer many gradations and sizes, though you may find that a longer one is easier to work with.
* A diamond-coated flat file requires only water for lubrication, remains flat for fast sharpening and is durable enough to last a lifetime.
* A sharpening steel is useful for finishing or for a quick fix.
* Grinding stones require extra caution because they transfer friction heat that can affect the metal temper, making it more brittle.
Because the use of whetstones is the most common of these four types, weíll describe that technique in detail here.
Step 3: Begin grinding the blades
Start with a medium-grain whetstone (see Photo 2, opposite page, top). Thoroughly wet the stone by soaking it in water or a lightweight motor oil. (For an even lighter finish, some people prefer using a vegetable oil.) Because water quickly evaporates, oil is usually a better choice. It will not only act as a lubricant but carry away grit during the sharpening process.
To maintain the correct angle, press the blade against the concave side of the stone while sharpening. Use numerous smooth strokes, moving the blade in one direction toward the tipóas if you are trying to shave off a thin slice from the whetstone. Donít press too hard.
For every 10 strokes to the outer bevel, apply one stroke to the inner angle.
Keep the stone wet by periodically applying more water or oil. (Donít switch between the two, however. If you start with oil, continue using oil.)
If the blade has a nick, use a file to remove the bent metal piece. If it has multiple nicks, you may need to start the sharpening process with a coarser stone.
Step 4: Smooth the edges
Once youíve achieved the proper angle and sharpness, move to using a finer-grain whetstone and continue sharpening until you achieve a razor-sharp edge. Donít reduce the beveled edge to less than 1-mm thickness. A finer edge will not increase sharpening ability but will make the blade more fragile and prone to damage or breakage.
Step 5: Test the sharpness
You can conduct a preliminary test without having to make a trip outside. Simply hold the cutting edge up to a light source. If you can see light reflecting off the blade edge, itís not yet adequately sharpened.
Once the tool passes the light-reflection test, youíre ready for the ultimate test of trying it on the size of branch it is designed to cut (see Photo 3, at middle right). If youíve sharpened the blades properly, they will make clean, easy cuts. If the blades pull or catch, theyíre not sharp enough. In that case, continue sharpening with the fine whetstone or switch to an extra-fine stone. Retest as necessary, again being careful not to over-sharpen the blades.
Step 6: Add a coat of oil
Finish off the blades by rubbing a light coat of oil them (see Photo 4, bottom right). Remember: dirt that sticks to your tools acts as a sponge, collecting moisture and causing rust. So be sure to keep dirt off your tools when theyíre not in use.
When sharpening other types of tools, you may need to make some modification of these steps. For example, when sharpening anvil-type pruners or clippers, sharpen only one blade but on both sides. Avoid putting a curve on the bladeís edge. Unless the edge is perfectly straight, it wonít strike true against the flat anvil, and strands of plant tissue will cling to the blade after each cut.
Before sharpening shears, you might find it easier to take them apart. Keep in mind that regrinding blades usually is not recommended. Doing so tends to change the cutting angle and destroy the fluting. Plus, regrinding can create a convex cutting edge that leads to poor shearing action and difficulty in cutting.
For scissor-action "bypass" lopping shears, sharpen only the outside surface of each blade. This will maintain the cutting surface so the blades will cut cleanly as they slide past each other. Remember that the inside blade surfaces need to remain flat, so you should clean them but not sharpen them.
When youíre sharpening your tools, itís also a good idea to check the tension screw between the blades. If needed, adjust the screw to allow more freedom of movement while still ensuring that the blades are close enough together to work properly.
What if you have a saw that needs sharpening? Thatís a tedious job that takes special skills and special equipment, so youíll most likely want to leave it to a professional. Check the Yellow Pages under "Sharpening services" or try a local hardware store.
After youíve sharpened a tool several times, you may notice that the cutting angle is becoming rounded (an edge that is more than a 90-degree angle). At this point, the blades start working with a crushing action instead of a clipping action. This indicates the blade is worn out, and itís time to replace it or the entire tool.
Protect your investment in quality tools and limit the need for sharpening by performing routine maintenance between uses. Find a handy, easy-to-reach spot to hang up a rag thatís dry on one end and has oil on the other. Use it to wipe off your tools, keeping them clean and oiled after youíre done using them. Itís especially important to do this small task before putting away your tools for the season.
Another handy trick is to keep a 5-gallon bucket filled with coarse builderís sand in your garage or tool shed. Dip the metal blades of each tool into the sand and pull them up and down several times. This will remove any mud or clinging soil. Next, use a wire brush or steel wool to take off any rust or other particles of debris that remain. You also can pour some motor oil into the bucket of sand so that, when dipping them in the sand to clean them, you give them a coating of oil.
Despite these recommendations, if you still donít lubricate your tools regularly, at least do so at the end of the season, applying a light coat of oil to the blades. Also protect wooden-handled tools with linseed oil or a coat of varnish. And lubricate any moving parts. Then store tools in a dry place. By following these steps, your tools will be ready whenever you are, any time of the year.
By Greg Stephens
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Cooking On An Open Fire
First and foremost, the right equipment. When you are cooking over a fire, there are a few things to remember. When you are able to think about these things as a system for cooking, you will automatically know what sort of pans and equipment will work on the fire.
If you sit a pan directly on the hot coals, your food will likely burn. If you hang your pan too far above the coals, it will not cook. If you try to cook over a fire instead of a bed of coals, you will be frustrated.
So what you need to work toward is a bed of hot coals, and a pan that is not too close nor too far away from the coals.
HOW close? Well, that depends on what you are cooking, and most of that knowledge will come with experience, however you can logically expect the coals to be hotter when you are closer to them :)
Obviously you will have to replenish your hot coals from time to time as you are cooking. So in your fireplace, choose a spot that is comfortable for you to reach to cook in, and another place to the side or rear of the fireplace to keep a fire going. I cook all along the front and one side of a fireplace, and allow the fire to burn in the left rear portion of the box. Whenever the coals burn out or loose some of their heat, scoop hot coals from the fire area to the cooking area. Some of the spent coals can be removed during cooking, but I usually wait 'until the cooking is over to do that.
There are many, many items that you could purchase to use for cooking in your fireplace, but here are my favorites:
Spyders - These are three or four legged trivet-like things that hold your pans above the coals. They have a ring for the pan to sit in and an open bottom. They can be purchased in varying heights so that you can cook close to the coals or several inches away from them. Three different heights would be ideal, but two would do. The really tall ones are great for keeping food warm.
If you equip your fireplace with a trammel or hanging arm, you can buy all kinds of do-dads to hang on it and hang your pots from. I like the one that adjusts from short to long so you can adjust how quickly your food is cooking without moving the pot off the fire. This is especially handy if your fireplace is small and you are cramped for room in there.
Utensils - Well, obviously you want long ones....but don't get them any longer than what is comfortable for you to manage. My very longest ones are 18". Also consider getting cast iron utensils instead of stainless or wooden ones. They just last longer. You need a spoon, a slotted spoon, a fork or three of various sizes, two spatulas, one short and one long, and that's all that is really essential. As you cook more and more you will find that there are other utensils that you would like to have. Choose very sturdy ones, for you will find that you use them for lifting Dutch Oven lids, pots and pans and other heavy items out of the fire. I finally got a utensil that is nothing more than a big hook to do just that!
You might want a spit to roast meat on, but I bind the meat up with cotton thread, season it and hang over slow coals for about 6-8 hours to roast. Works well, if you can stand the aroma for that long! Another good way to roast meat like venison steaks, is to skewer the meat onto a large fork and prop the fork up in front of the fire, turning frequently 'until the meat is done.
There are reflector ovens made for the fireplace and they are really great.....once you learn how to use them properly, and that takes practice. They can be used to cook meats, breads, cakes, cookies, or casseroles. They are relatively slow cooking, but they do the job very well, as soon as you learn how to keep the coals at an even temperature and how to pull the oven back from the fire when it becomes too hot.
There are also Dutch Ovens. I recommend one with a lid that has a lip on it so that you can put hot coals on top of it without them sliding off. The coals on the top of the lid helps the food to cook from both the top and bottom of the pan, much the way a conventional oven does. This is the best way to bake in the fireplace, besides the reflector oven. You want Dutch Ovens that have LEGS. You will need at a minimum of three Dutch Ovens to cook a large meal. They can be used to cook cakes, cornbreads, puddings, soups, stews, roasts, on and on.....The trick is to keep the pan moving every ____ minutes. You will fill in the blank as you are more experienced, but I find that I like to move my Dutch Oven around and reposition it with new coals every 5-15 minutes. It's very easy to burn a cake in a Dutch Oven...How do I know? Oh....never mind.
Other Pots and Pans - Well, just get cast iron and make sure that they all have LEGS on them! You want the coals to be able to get up under the pans to cook the food, this way you don't have to sit the pan ON the coals and risk burning. Make sure they have handles, too.
You will need a safe place to sit hot pans coming off the fire, lots of dish towels and all of the usual fireplace accoutrements like a shovel, ash bucket, bucket of water for emergencies, poker.
You will need a large pan or tray to place your utensils on while you are using them.
One last thing I have learned about cooking over a fire. When I am pushed for time and I have hungry people to cook for I have to use higher heat and therefore more grease in my cooking. However, if you are not pressed for time and you can relax a bit, you can cook with lower temperature coals and use less grease. This may not seem important now, but as you cook on the fire more and more you will catch yourself adding more grease to whatever you are cooking because the temp. is too high.
You are going to have to grease the pans a lot more than you are probably used to doing anyway with conventional cooking, especially considering our low fat ways these days. But as you become more experienced, you can cut back on the grease considerably.
Oh, and most importantly, take your time when you can, don't stress out when you're over the fire, and don't cook with little ones all around you.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
What To Do?????
So over the last few months me and my wife have talked about hitting the road in an RV and making a life on the road as nomads. We have done a lot of reading and looked at over a 100 RV's and found a few we like. Now over the last few weeks we have been asking the question, "Why not just get some land in a great place"? So now we may just use our money and buy a spot of dirt and make a new life, but make one thing for sure we are getting out of this state as soon as we can. I have a little bit of school left to do and after that we bolt! I think we will make a few trips to areas we like and check them out for a place to move to, and look for the spot of land we will make a stand on. We still may get a small RV or tent trailer to use as a BOV and for camping.
We just had a problem with how to bring all of our survival gear and food. And if we stored it at a set location and the SHTF when we were 2000 miles away it's the same as not having the supplies. We want a retreat with our supplies on hand and have a retreat we can defend and survive on. How will I find this uni-corn? I have no idea, but I will start the look and try to find the best spot of dirt to make a new life. If any of you have some good ideas please let me know, any and all in-put will be appreciated. I want rural and off the beaten path with a water supply and dirt I can grow food in. I don't want much, do I?
Remember time is short so keep up your prepping and stand strong for true freedom!
Life goes on.......Will you?
We just had a problem with how to bring all of our survival gear and food. And if we stored it at a set location and the SHTF when we were 2000 miles away it's the same as not having the supplies. We want a retreat with our supplies on hand and have a retreat we can defend and survive on. How will I find this uni-corn? I have no idea, but I will start the look and try to find the best spot of dirt to make a new life. If any of you have some good ideas please let me know, any and all in-put will be appreciated. I want rural and off the beaten path with a water supply and dirt I can grow food in. I don't want much, do I?
Remember time is short so keep up your prepping and stand strong for true freedom!
Life goes on.......Will you?
Monday, October 11, 2010
Great "Quotes"
Concentrated power has always been the enemy of liberty.
Ronald Reagan
Democracy is worth dying for, because it's the most deeply honorable form of government ever devised by man.
Ronald Reagan
Freedom prospers when religion is vibrant and the rule of law under God is acknowledged.
Ronald Reagan
Government always finds a need for whatever money it gets.
Ronald Reagan
Government does not solve problems; it subsidizes them.
Ronald Reagan
Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.
Ronald Reagan
A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.
Thomas Jefferson
A Bill of Rights is what the people are entitled to against every government, and what no just government should refuse, or rest on inference.
Thomas Jefferson
All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.
Thomas Jefferson
All, too, will bear in mind this sacred principle, that though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression.
Thomas Jefferson
Ronald Reagan
Democracy is worth dying for, because it's the most deeply honorable form of government ever devised by man.
Ronald Reagan
Freedom prospers when religion is vibrant and the rule of law under God is acknowledged.
Ronald Reagan
Government always finds a need for whatever money it gets.
Ronald Reagan
Government does not solve problems; it subsidizes them.
Ronald Reagan
Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.
Ronald Reagan
A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.
Thomas Jefferson
A Bill of Rights is what the people are entitled to against every government, and what no just government should refuse, or rest on inference.
Thomas Jefferson
All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.
Thomas Jefferson
All, too, will bear in mind this sacred principle, that though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression.
Thomas Jefferson
Sunday, October 10, 2010
FEMA The Secret Government!!!! Executive Orders To Look At
Some people have referred to it as the "secret government" of the United States. It is not an elected body, it does not involve itself in public disclosures, and it even has a quasi-secret budget in the billions of dollars. This government organization has more power than the President of the United States or the Congress, it has the power to suspend laws, move entire populations, arrest and detain citizens without a warrant and hold them without trial, it can seize property, food supplies, transportation systems, and can suspend the Constitution. Not only is it the most powerful entity in the United States, but it was not even created under Constitutional law by the Congress. It was a product of a Presidential Executive Order. No, it is not the U.S. military nor the Central Intelligence Agency, they are subject to Congress. The organization is called FEMA, which stands for the Federal Emergency Management Agency. Originally conceived in the Richard Nixon Administration, it was refined by President Jimmy Carter and given teeth in the Ronald Reagan and George Bush Administrations.
FEMA had one original concept when it was created, to assure the survivability of the United States government in the event of a nuclear attack on this nation. It was also provided with the task of being a federal coordinating body during times of domestic disasters, such as earthquakes, floods and hurricanes. Its awesome powers grow under the tutelage of people like Lt. Col. Oliver North and General Richard Secord, the architects on the Iran-Contra scandal and the looting of America's savings and loan institutions. FEMA has even been given control of the State Defense Forces, a rag-tag, often considered neo-Nazi, civilian army that will substitute for the National Guard, if the Guard is called to duty overseas.
THE MOST POWERFUL ORGANIZATION IN THE UNITED STATES.
Though it may be the most powerful organization in the United States, few people know it even exists. But it has crept into our private lives. Even mortgage papers contain FEMA's name in small print if the property in question is near a flood plain. FEMA was deeply involved in the Los Angeles riots and the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake in the San Francisco Bay Area. Some of the black helicopter traffic reported throughout the United States, but mainly in the West, California, Washington, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas and Colorado, are flown by FEMA personnel. FEMA has been given responsibility for many new disasters including urban forest fires, home heating emergencies, refugee situations, urban riots, and emergency planning for nuclear and toxic incidents. In the West, it works in conjunction with the Sixth Army. FEMA was created in a series of Executive Orders. A Presidential Executive Order, whether Constitutional or not, becomes law simply by its publication in the Federal Registry. Congress is by-passed.
Executive Order Number 12148 created the Federal Emergency Management Agency that is to interface with the Department of Defense for civil defense planning and funding. An "emergency czar" was appointed. FEMA has only spent about 6 percent of its budget on national emergencies. The bulk of their funding has been used for the construction of secret underground facilities to assure continuity of government in case of a major emergency, foreign or domestic.
Executive Order Number 12656 appointed the National Security Council as the principal body that should consider emergency powers. This allows the government to increase domestic intelligence and surveillance of U.S. citizens and would restrict the freedom of movement within the United States and grant the government the right to isolate large groups of civilians. The National Guard could be federalized to seal all borders and take control of U.S. air space and all ports of entry. Here are just a few Executive Orders associated with FEMA that would suspend the Constitution and the Bill of Rights. These Executive Orders have been on record for nearly 30 years and could be enacted by the stroke of a Presidential pen:
EXECUTIVE ORDER 10990 allows the government to take over all modes of transportation and control of highways and seaports.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 10995 allows the government to seize and control the communication media.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 10997 allows the government to take over all electrical power, gas, petroleum, fuels and minerals.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 10998 allows the government to take over all food resources and farms.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11000 allows the government to mobilize civilians into work brigades under government supervision.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11001 allows the government to take over all health, education and welfare functions.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11002 designates the Postmaster General to operate a national registration of all persons.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11003 allows the government to take over all airports and aircraft, including commercial aircraft.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11004 allows the Housing and Finance Authority to relocate communities, build new housing with public funds, designate areas to be abandoned, and establish new locations for populations.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11005 allows the government to take over railroads, inland waterways and public storage facilities.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11051 specifies the responsibility of the Office of Emergency Planning and gives authorization to put all Executive Orders into effect in times of increased international tensions and economic or financial crisis.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11310 grants authority to the Department of Justice to enforce the plans set out in Executive Orders, to institute industrial support, to establish judicial and legislative liaison, to control all aliens, to operate penal and correctional institutions, and to advise and assist the President.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11049 assigns emergency preparedness function to federal departments and agencies, consolidating 21 operative Executive Orders issued over a fifteen year period.
EXECUTIVE ORDER 11921 allows the Federal Emergency Preparedness Agency to develop plans to establish control over the mechanisms of production and distribution, of energy sources, wages, salaries, credit and the flow of money in U.S. financial institution in any undefined national emergency. It also provides that when a state of emergency is declared by the President, Congress cannot review the action for six months. The Federal Emergency Management Agency has broad powers in every aspect of the nation.
General Frank Salzedo, chief of FEMA's Civil Security Division stated in a 1983 conference that he saw FEMA's role as a "new frontier in the protection of individual and governmental leaders from assassination, and of civil and military installations from sabotage and/or attack, as well as prevention of dissident groups from gaining access to U.S. opinion, or a global audience in times of crisis." FEMA's powers were consolidated by President Carter to incorporate: The National Security Act of 1947, which allows for the strategic relocation of industries, services, government and other essential economic activities, and to rationalize the requirements for manpower, resources and production facilities; The 1950 Defense Production Act, which gives the President sweeping powers over all aspects of the economy; The Act of August 29, 1916, which authorizes the Secretary of the Army, in time of war, to take possession of any transportation system for transporting troops, material, or any other purpose related to the emergency; and The International Emergency Economic Powers Act, which enables the President to seize the property of a foreign country or national. These powers were transferred to FEMA in a sweeping consolidation in 1979.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Will The People Make A Stand? I Think Not!!!!!!
Will the walking dead make a stand for freedom? Will the people of this country wake up and see the scam being pulled on them? Will the people of this country walk just like sheep into the slaughter house? I think most will do as told and walk hand and hand into the FEMA Camps and be happy they did so. The few of us who see the truth will fight and survive and push ahead to a new life with true freedom. I fear that the biggest part of this country is lost and will not and can not be saved. There is a few that are on the fence and with a little work can be saved from the evil that is coming. The coming collapse is going to be the biggest single event to ever hit this country or world. And in that one single second of time when the walking dead realize that it's to late and the evil and doom is here and there is not a thing they can do about it. I'm sure they will run crazy and steal what ever they can get there hands on and kill or hurt whoever gets in there way. The sleeple will do whatever they can to try to survive but once the collapse hits it will be to late. Only the smart little squirrels who worked so hard to put away for the winter will survive. I'm sure a few will have nothing and still survive but just as sure as they will survive, I am sure they will have a hard time at it. The people who prep and store for the coming collapse will not have it easy, but I'm sure the person who has two years of food will survive with greater ease than a person who had nothing and the day of the collapse found a months worth of food. Yes he has food for a month but that is a short time to have before you must start the day to day look for more food; now the person with two years of food has a little bit of time to get other things going like new shelter or better shelter, finding needed tools, and doing a lot of other needed things to set yourself up for the long term. I prep to survive and to live after an coming event of doom, and I'm sure most of the people who read this blog prep for the same reasons. All you have to do is look around and you will see that the collapse is near. Our days are few before the coming event of doom and now is the last of the days to start to prep and with the preps you will buy yourself and your family needed time and peace of mind to survive. If you don't prep or stock away food and other needed supplies now is the time to start!!!!
Life goes on..........Will You?
Life goes on..........Will You?
Friday, October 8, 2010
We Live In A Police State!!!!!!!!!
See this story:
Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a trade unionist.
Then they came for the Jews,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a Jew.
Then they came for me
and by that time no one was left to speak up.
A modern version might read like this:
They came first for the militia members,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a militia member.
Then they came for the three percenters,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a three percenter.
Then they came for the Oath Keepers,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t an Oath Keeper.
Then they came for me
and by that time no one was left to speak up.
Remember Pastor Niemöller’s timeless warning:
They came first for the Communists,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a Communist.Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a trade unionist.
Then they came for the Jews,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a Jew.
Then they came for me
and by that time no one was left to speak up.
A modern version might read like this:
They came first for the militia members,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a militia member.
Then they came for the three percenters,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t a three percenter.
Then they came for the Oath Keepers,
and I didn’t speak up because I wasn’t an Oath Keeper.
Then they came for me
and by that time no one was left to speak up.
Using and Storing Honey
Using Honey
One pound of honey is about 1-1/3 cups. A 3-pound container holds about 4 cups honey.
Honey can be used in many ways. It makes a good spread for breads, muffins and biscuits and a tasty sandwich filling when mixed with dried fruits, peanut butter or cottage cheese. Honey can be used as a sweetener for fruits and beverages. It also can be used in any food that is sweetened, including frozen desserts, baked products, meat glazes, custards, frostings, pie fillings, cobblers, puddings, candied vegetables and salad dressings.
Some recipes use honey as the main sweetener; others use sugar. Honey can be used to replace some of the sugar called for in many recipes. Use these guidelines for cakes and cookies.
Cakes: One-half of the sugar in a cake recipe can be replaced with honey. For every 1 cup of sugar replaced, leave out 1/4 cup of liquid.
Cookies: The amount of sugar that can be replaced with honey varies with the kind of cookie being made. For brownies, half of the sugar can be replaced. For fruit bars, honey can replace two-thirds of the sugar called for in the recipe. Only one-third of the sugar can be replaced in gingersnaps.
When making either cakes or cookies, first mix the honey with the fat or the liquid. Then mix it thoroughly with the other ingredients. If this is not done, a soggy layer will form on the top of the baked product.
Products made with honey brown faster than foods made with other sweeteners. So when you bake products made with honey, set the oven temperature 25 degrees F lower than what is indicated in the recipe.
Storing Honey
Honey keeps best in a dry place at a cool temperature between 50 and 70 degrees F. Keep it in a tightly covered container so it does not absorb moisture or odors from the air.
Honey will start to form crystals as it gets older or if it is refrigerated. To make it liquid again, place the honey in an open container in a pan of warm water until it is clear. Do not have the honey in a plastic container when you set it in the warm water.
Health and Honey
Honey provides energy to the body. The amounts of nutrients in honey, however, are small when the number of calories in honey are considered.
Honey cannot be used as a substitute for cane or beet sugar in a sugar-restricted diet. Honey is composed of the same basic parts as regular sugar, and the body uses it in the same way.
Honey and products made with honey must not be fed to infants younger than one year, because honey can cause "infant botulism." Spores of the bacteria that cause botulism are present in honey. When these spores get into the intestinal tract of an infant, they grow and produce a toxin that results in serious illness and death. Remember that these spores in honey are not destroyed by regular cooking or baking methods.
One pound of honey is about 1-1/3 cups. A 3-pound container holds about 4 cups honey.
Honey can be used in many ways. It makes a good spread for breads, muffins and biscuits and a tasty sandwich filling when mixed with dried fruits, peanut butter or cottage cheese. Honey can be used as a sweetener for fruits and beverages. It also can be used in any food that is sweetened, including frozen desserts, baked products, meat glazes, custards, frostings, pie fillings, cobblers, puddings, candied vegetables and salad dressings.
Some recipes use honey as the main sweetener; others use sugar. Honey can be used to replace some of the sugar called for in many recipes. Use these guidelines for cakes and cookies.
Cakes: One-half of the sugar in a cake recipe can be replaced with honey. For every 1 cup of sugar replaced, leave out 1/4 cup of liquid.
Cookies: The amount of sugar that can be replaced with honey varies with the kind of cookie being made. For brownies, half of the sugar can be replaced. For fruit bars, honey can replace two-thirds of the sugar called for in the recipe. Only one-third of the sugar can be replaced in gingersnaps.
When making either cakes or cookies, first mix the honey with the fat or the liquid. Then mix it thoroughly with the other ingredients. If this is not done, a soggy layer will form on the top of the baked product.
Products made with honey brown faster than foods made with other sweeteners. So when you bake products made with honey, set the oven temperature 25 degrees F lower than what is indicated in the recipe.
Storing Honey
Honey keeps best in a dry place at a cool temperature between 50 and 70 degrees F. Keep it in a tightly covered container so it does not absorb moisture or odors from the air.
Honey will start to form crystals as it gets older or if it is refrigerated. To make it liquid again, place the honey in an open container in a pan of warm water until it is clear. Do not have the honey in a plastic container when you set it in the warm water.
Health and Honey
Honey provides energy to the body. The amounts of nutrients in honey, however, are small when the number of calories in honey are considered.
Honey cannot be used as a substitute for cane or beet sugar in a sugar-restricted diet. Honey is composed of the same basic parts as regular sugar, and the body uses it in the same way.
Honey and products made with honey must not be fed to infants younger than one year, because honey can cause "infant botulism." Spores of the bacteria that cause botulism are present in honey. When these spores get into the intestinal tract of an infant, they grow and produce a toxin that results in serious illness and death. Remember that these spores in honey are not destroyed by regular cooking or baking methods.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Getting Ready For Cold Weather
It's fall and soon the cold weather will roll in and before you know it it will be winter. The fun in the sun summer outings and long days are over and with the days getting shorter and the nights getting longer. We still need to keep up our prepping and skills building. I find my fall and winter nights full of reading and thinking about my preps and the skills I need to work on. This winter will be the same as all the others, I will read and plan for my survival and on the days that are nice outside I will get a few things done around the shop. I hope to get in a few more good days at the range this fall before winter sets in with it's full blast of cold. Here in this part of California we get a mild winter(As I see it), but it's always a wet one. We get the rain from the end of October till April and then no rain again till October again. We may get a short rain shower once in the summer but not every year and if it happens it's very short. But in the winter we get rain all the time, and sometimes for days and days. It's so funny here compared to my home state of North Carolina, in the summer back home everything is green with life and in the winter things die, but in the summer here in the hot state of California everything dies and green life comes back in the winter. As the cold weather sets in take a little time each night and do a little reading and plan for your survival. Make so plans for the nice days when the weather breaks and you have a window to get out and do some work.
Keep up your prepping and stand strong! Life goes on......Will you?
Keep up your prepping and stand strong! Life goes on......Will you?
Cold Weather Is On It's Way
A few recipes for the coming Fall/Winter.
Potato soup
Ingredients
4 cups peeled, diced Irish (white) potatoes
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. butter or margarine
1 qt. whole milk
1 egg, beaten
salt and pepper to taste
green onions, parsley, and grated carrots for garnish
How to make it:
Boil potatoes and onion in just enough water to cover. When tender, add milk, salt, and pepper and reheat.
In small skillet, brown flour in butter and slowly blend into potato mixture. Add a bit of water to beaten egg and slowly stir into soup. Let simmer a few minutes to thicken. Stir often to keep from sticking. (I like to transfer this soup to a double boiler when it begins to simmer, as there’s less danger of sticking.)
Garnish bowls of soup with chopped green onions, parsley, or grated carrots to add a touch of color.
Dragon’s breath chili
Ingredients
1/3 lb. kidney beans
1/3 lb. pinto beans
1/3 lb. navy beans
6 cups water
2 medium onions, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 lb. lean ground beef (or lean ground turkey)
1 lb. pork or turkey sausage
1 can tomatoes (28 oz. or 1 qt. home-canned)
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
How to make it:
Sort beans to remove any sand or pebbles, then wash and drain. Cover beans with 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil for about 15 minutes. Cover and let stand for about 1 hour.
(When cooking ground meats, stir gently to avoid smashing and compacting.)
Cook sausage on medium heat. Remove sausage with a slotted spoon and add to beans. Sauté onion and minced garlic in sausage fat until slightly golden. Add ground meat (beef or turkey) and cook on medium-high heat until meat is browned. Add to beans.
Break up tomatoes into bite-sized pieces and add to beans. (Hint: Press tomatoes against the inside of can (or jar) with sharp knife, or hold each tomato over pot and crush it between fingers). Add spices.
Simmer, uncovered, for about 1 1/2 hours. Taste-testing is the only sure way to know when chili is done. Beans should be slightly soft all the way through (no “gritty” texture in the middle) and should leave the taste-tester thinking only of water. Serves 5-6.
Ham & Kidney Bean Soup
Ingredients
1 pound spicy or sweet Italian sausage
2 Smoked pork hocks, sawed in half by butcher.
3 medium Potatoes, peeled and cubed
3 Celery stalks with leaves, sliced fairly thin
2 Tablespoons Dried Parsley
3 (15 oz) cans Kidney beans
1 (15 oz) can Tomato Sauce
1 (28 oz) can Stewed tomatoes, cut up
1/2 teaspoon ground Black pepper
1 (28 oz) bottle Chili Sauce
5 Bay Leaves
1/2 teasspoon Garlic Powder
3 Tablespoons Worcherstershire Sauce
1 medium Onion, Chopped fine
1 Cup Water
How to make it:
Boil sausage to remove excess fat and salt, changing the water once, until the sausage is cooked through. Remove sausage from pan, let cool, then cut into 1/4" slices.
Remove and discard the skin from the pork hocks, then soak in cold water, changing water several times, to remove salt. DO NOT BOIL, as that will remove not only salt but a lot of the flavor. You may leave the hocks soaking over night.
Brown sausage & pork hocks in a frying pan sprayed with cooking spray.
Drain off excess fat, if any, then transfer to the soup pan.
Add the canned goods, including any liquid, then add the remaining ingredients.
Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Cover & continue to simmer for 2-3 hours.
Remove pork hocks. Let cool & cut into bite-size pieces. Return meat to pot and serve.
Makes about 10 servings.
All found at http://www.backwoodshome.com/recipes/recipes.html
Potato soup
Ingredients
4 cups peeled, diced Irish (white) potatoes
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. butter or margarine
1 qt. whole milk
1 egg, beaten
salt and pepper to taste
green onions, parsley, and grated carrots for garnish
How to make it:
Boil potatoes and onion in just enough water to cover. When tender, add milk, salt, and pepper and reheat.
In small skillet, brown flour in butter and slowly blend into potato mixture. Add a bit of water to beaten egg and slowly stir into soup. Let simmer a few minutes to thicken. Stir often to keep from sticking. (I like to transfer this soup to a double boiler when it begins to simmer, as there’s less danger of sticking.)
Garnish bowls of soup with chopped green onions, parsley, or grated carrots to add a touch of color.
Dragon’s breath chili
Ingredients
1/3 lb. kidney beans
1/3 lb. pinto beans
1/3 lb. navy beans
6 cups water
2 medium onions, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 lb. lean ground beef (or lean ground turkey)
1 lb. pork or turkey sausage
1 can tomatoes (28 oz. or 1 qt. home-canned)
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
How to make it:
Sort beans to remove any sand or pebbles, then wash and drain. Cover beans with 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil for about 15 minutes. Cover and let stand for about 1 hour.
(When cooking ground meats, stir gently to avoid smashing and compacting.)
Cook sausage on medium heat. Remove sausage with a slotted spoon and add to beans. Sauté onion and minced garlic in sausage fat until slightly golden. Add ground meat (beef or turkey) and cook on medium-high heat until meat is browned. Add to beans.
Break up tomatoes into bite-sized pieces and add to beans. (Hint: Press tomatoes against the inside of can (or jar) with sharp knife, or hold each tomato over pot and crush it between fingers). Add spices.
Simmer, uncovered, for about 1 1/2 hours. Taste-testing is the only sure way to know when chili is done. Beans should be slightly soft all the way through (no “gritty” texture in the middle) and should leave the taste-tester thinking only of water. Serves 5-6.
Ham & Kidney Bean Soup
Ingredients
1 pound spicy or sweet Italian sausage
2 Smoked pork hocks, sawed in half by butcher.
3 medium Potatoes, peeled and cubed
3 Celery stalks with leaves, sliced fairly thin
2 Tablespoons Dried Parsley
3 (15 oz) cans Kidney beans
1 (15 oz) can Tomato Sauce
1 (28 oz) can Stewed tomatoes, cut up
1/2 teaspoon ground Black pepper
1 (28 oz) bottle Chili Sauce
5 Bay Leaves
1/2 teasspoon Garlic Powder
3 Tablespoons Worcherstershire Sauce
1 medium Onion, Chopped fine
1 Cup Water
How to make it:
Boil sausage to remove excess fat and salt, changing the water once, until the sausage is cooked through. Remove sausage from pan, let cool, then cut into 1/4" slices.
Remove and discard the skin from the pork hocks, then soak in cold water, changing water several times, to remove salt. DO NOT BOIL, as that will remove not only salt but a lot of the flavor. You may leave the hocks soaking over night.
Brown sausage & pork hocks in a frying pan sprayed with cooking spray.
Drain off excess fat, if any, then transfer to the soup pan.
Add the canned goods, including any liquid, then add the remaining ingredients.
Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Cover & continue to simmer for 2-3 hours.
Remove pork hocks. Let cool & cut into bite-size pieces. Return meat to pot and serve.
Makes about 10 servings.
All found at http://www.backwoodshome.com/recipes/recipes.html
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
The Economic Collapse (InfoWars.com)
Found this it infowars.com and it's worth the read. A small amount of people know what is ahead. And the walking dead have no idea or don't care about the coming collapse. Keep prepping and stand your ground for freedom and survival.
Posted By Kurt Nimmo On October 4, 2010
The Economic CollapseRampant Inflation In 2011?
Are you ready for rampant inflation? Well, unfortunately it looks like it might be headed our way. The U.S. monetary base has absolutely exploded over the last couple of years, and all that money is starting to filter through into the hands of consumers. Commodity prices are absolutely skyrocketing, and it is inevitable that those price increases will show up in our stores at some point soon. The U.S. dollar has already been slipping substantially, and now there is every indication that the Fed is hungry to start printing even more money. All of these things are going to cause a rise in inflation. Not that we aren’t already seeing inflation in many sectors of the economy. Airline fares for the holiday season are up 20 to 30 percent above last year’s rates. Double-digit increases in health insurance premiums are being reported from coast to coast. The price of food has been quietly sneaking up even at places like Wal-Mart. Meanwhile the U.S. government insists that the rate of inflation is close to zero. Anyone who actually believes the government inflation numbers is living in a fantasy world. The U.S. government has been openly manipulating official inflation numbers for several decades now. But we really haven’t seen anything yet. As increasingly larger amounts of paper money are dumped into the economy, we are eventually going to see the worst inflation in American history. The only real question is how far down the road are we going to get before it happens.
Take a few moments and digest the chart below. It shows just how dramatically the U.S. monetary base has been expanded recently….
Up to this point this dramatic expansion of the U.S. monetary base has not caused that much inflation because U.S. government borrowing has soaked most of it up and U.S. banks have been hoarding cash and have been building up their reserves.
However, this situation will not last forever. Eventually all this cash will make its way through the food chain and into the hands of U.S. consumers.
But what is even more troubling is the dramatic spike in commodity prices that we have seen in 2010.
Wheat futures have surged 63 percent since the month of June. Wheat has recently been selling well above 7 dollars a bushel on the Chicago Board of Trade.
But wheat is far from alone. In his recent column entitled “An Inflationary Cocktail In The Making“, Richard Benson listed many of the other commodities that have seen extraordinary price increases over the past year….
*Agricultural Raw Materials: 24%
*Industrial Inputs Index: 25%
*Metals Price Index: 26%
*Coffee: 45%
*Barley: 32%
*Oranges: 35%
*Beef: 23%
*Pork: 68%
*Salmon: 30%
*Sugar: 24%
*Wool: 20%
*Cotton: 40%
*Palm Oil: 26%
*Hides: 25%
*Rubber: 62%
*Iron Ore: 103%
Now, as those price increases enter the chain of production do you think that there is any chance that they will not cause inflation?
Do you think there is any chance at all that producers and retailers will not pass those costs on to consumers?
It is time to face facts.
Those cost increases are going to filter all the way through the system and your paycheck is soon not going to stretch nearly as far.
Inflation is coming.
Many savvy investors understand what is going on right now. That is one reason why gold and silver are absolutely soaring at the moment.
The price of gold set another record high on Friday for the sixth straight day.
Silver has also experienced extraordinary gains recently, and the U.S. Mint has officially raised their wholesale pricing above spot on American Silver Eagles from $1.50 to $2.00.
Meanwhile, there are even more rumblings that the Fed wants to print lots more money. On Friday, the president of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York, William Dudley, stated that the high unemployment and the low inflation that the United States is experiencing right now are “wholly unacceptable”….
“Further action is likely to be warranted unless the economic outlook evolves in such a way that makes me more confident that we will see better outcomes for both employment and inflation before long.”
During his remarks, Dudley even mentioned what the effect of another $500 billion increase in the Fed’s balance sheet would be.
Now keep in mind, this is not just another “Joe” who is making these remarks.
This is the president of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York – the most important of all the regional Fed banks.
In recent weeks it is almost as if you can hear Fed officials salivate as they consider the prospect of flooding the economy with even more money.
Up to this point, very little has worked to stimulate the dying U.S. economy. The Federal Reserve and the Obama administration are getting nervous as the American people become increasingly frustrated about the economic situation.
So will flooding the economy with even more money and causing even more inflation do the trick?
Well, no, but what inflated GDP figures will do is enable Obama and the Fed to say: “Look the economy is growing again!”
But if a flood of paper money causes the value of goods and services produced in the U.S. to go up by 5 percent but the real inflation rate is 10 percent, are we better off or are we worse off?
It doesn’t take a genius to figure that one out.
So don’t get fooled by “economic growth” numbers. Just because more money is changing hands doesn’t mean that the U.S. economy is doing better.
In fact, many American families are going to be financially shredded by the coming inflation tsunami.
Just think about it.
How far will your paycheck go when a half gallon of milk is 10 dollars and a loaf of bread is 5 dollars?
Already, it is incredibly difficult for the average American family of four to get by on $50,000 a year.
So how much money will we need when rampant inflation starts kicking in?
And do you think that your employers will actually give you pay raises to keep up with all of this inflation?
Not in these economic conditions.
In fact, median household incomes are declining from coast to coast all over the United States.
Earlier this year, Ben Bernanke promised Congress that the Federal Reserve would not “print money” to help the U.S. Congress finance the exploding U.S. national debt.
Did any of you believe him at the time?
Did any of you actually believe that the Federal Reserve would act responsibly and would attempt to keep the money supply and inflation under control?
The reality is that the entire Federal Reserve system is predicated on perpetual inflation and a perpetually expanding national debt.
Whatever wealth you and your family have been able to scrape together is going to continue to be whittled away month after month after month by the hidden tax of inflation.
And unfortunately, as discussed above, inflation is about to get a whole lot worse.
So is there any room for optimism? Is there any hope that we will not see horrible inflation in the years ahead?????
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Food Going Up Each Year..........
Take a look at the food cost over the years and how much it has gone up. I know most of you know this but when you look and see it all in one place it kind of hits you. Not one item has gone down in price.
Source: U.S. Bureau of Labor
Table 717. Food—Retail Prices of Selected Items: 2000 to 2008
[In dollars per pound, except as indicated. As of December.
Food ..................................Years 2000 / 2007 / 2008 %Up
Cereals and bakery products:
Flour, white, all purpose . . . . . . . . . 0.28 /0.40 /0.50 ^78%
Rice, white, lg. grain, raw . . . . . . . . (NA) /0.55 /0.81 ^81%
Spaghetti and macaroni . . . . . . . . . . . 0.88 /0.85 /1.13 ^28%
Bread, white, pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.99 /1.28 /1.42 ^43%
Bread, whole wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.36 /1.81 /1.95 ^43%
Beef:
Ground beef, 100% beef. . . . . . . . . . . 1.63 /2.23 /2.41 ^47%
Ground chuck, 100% beef. . . . . . . . . . 1.98 /2.70 /3.00 ^51%
Ground beef, lean and extra lean . . . . . 2.33 /3.07 /3.44 ^47%
Round steak, USDA Choice. . . . . . . . . 3.28 /4.04 /4.37 ^33%
Sirloin steak, boneless . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.81 /5.91 /6.07 ^26%
Pork:
Bacon, sliced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.03 /3.69 /3.67 ^21%
Chops, center cut, bone-in . . . . . . . . . 3.46 /3.38 /3.54 ^ 2%
Ham, boneless, excluding canned . . . . 2.75 /3.04 /3.41 ^24%
Poultry, fish, and eggs:
Chicken, fresh, whole. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.08 /1.17 /1.31 ^21%
Chicken legs, bone-in. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.26 /1.36 /1.50 ^19%
Turkey, frozen, whole . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.99 /1.01 /1.33 ^34%
Eggs, Grade A, large, (dozen) . . . . . . . 0.96 /2.10 /1.83 ^90%
Dairy products:
Milk, fresh, whole, fortified (per gal.) . . . 2.79 /3.87 /3.68 ^31%
Butter, salted, grade AA, stick . . . . . . . 2.80 /2.98 /3.13 ^11%
American processed cheese . . . . . . . . 3.69 /3.91 /4.14 ^12%
Cheddar cheese, natural. . . . . . . . . . . 3.76 /4.45 /4.95 ^31%
Ice cream, prepacked., bulk, reg.
(1/2 gal.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.66 /4.08 /4.28 ^17%
Fresh fruits and vegetables:
Apples, Red Delicious . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.82 /1.12 /1.18 ^43%
Bananas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.49 /0.53 /0.62 ^26%
Oranges, navel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.62 /0.91 /0.93 ^50%
Grapefruit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.58 /0.91 /0.91 ^56%
Grapes, Thompson seedless . . . . . . . . 2.36 /2.72 /2.46 ^ 4%
Lemons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.11 /2.05 /1.62 ^45%
Pears, Anjou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (NA) /1.27 /1.37 ^ 7%
Potatoes, white . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 /0.52 /0.68 ^94%
Lettuce, iceberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.85 /0.95 /0.88 ^ 3%
Tomatoes, field grown . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.57 /2.15 /1.73 ^10%
Processed fruits and vegetables:
Orange juice, frozen concentrate,
12 oz. can, per 16 oz. . . . . . . . . . . . 1.88 /2.53 /2.56 ^36%
Sugar and sweets:
Sugar, white, all sizes. . . . . . . . . . . . 0.41 /0.50 /0.53 ^29%
Sugar, white, 33-80 oz. pkg. . . . . . . . . 0.40 /0.48 /0.50 ^25%
Fats and oils:
Margarine, stick. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (NA) /1.01 /1.18 ^16%
Margarine, tubs, soft . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.84 /1.24 /1.57 ^86%
Peanut butter, creamy, all sizes . . . . . . 1.96 /1.88 /2.15 ^ 9%
Nonalcoholic beverages:
Coffee, 100% ground roast, all sizes . . . 3.21 /3.69 /(NA) ^14%
Other prepared foods:
Potato chips, per 16 oz. . . . . . . . . . . . 3.44 /3.65 /4.48 ^39%
Source: U.S. Bureau of Labor
Table 717. Food—Retail Prices of Selected Items: 2000 to 2008
[In dollars per pound, except as indicated. As of December.
Food ..................................Years 2000 / 2007 / 2008 %Up
Cereals and bakery products:
Flour, white, all purpose . . . . . . . . . 0.28 /0.40 /0.50 ^78%
Rice, white, lg. grain, raw . . . . . . . . (NA) /0.55 /0.81 ^81%
Spaghetti and macaroni . . . . . . . . . . . 0.88 /0.85 /1.13 ^28%
Bread, white, pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.99 /1.28 /1.42 ^43%
Bread, whole wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.36 /1.81 /1.95 ^43%
Beef:
Ground beef, 100% beef. . . . . . . . . . . 1.63 /2.23 /2.41 ^47%
Ground chuck, 100% beef. . . . . . . . . . 1.98 /2.70 /3.00 ^51%
Ground beef, lean and extra lean . . . . . 2.33 /3.07 /3.44 ^47%
Round steak, USDA Choice. . . . . . . . . 3.28 /4.04 /4.37 ^33%
Sirloin steak, boneless . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.81 /5.91 /6.07 ^26%
Pork:
Bacon, sliced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.03 /3.69 /3.67 ^21%
Chops, center cut, bone-in . . . . . . . . . 3.46 /3.38 /3.54 ^ 2%
Ham, boneless, excluding canned . . . . 2.75 /3.04 /3.41 ^24%
Poultry, fish, and eggs:
Chicken, fresh, whole. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.08 /1.17 /1.31 ^21%
Chicken legs, bone-in. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.26 /1.36 /1.50 ^19%
Turkey, frozen, whole . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.99 /1.01 /1.33 ^34%
Eggs, Grade A, large, (dozen) . . . . . . . 0.96 /2.10 /1.83 ^90%
Dairy products:
Milk, fresh, whole, fortified (per gal.) . . . 2.79 /3.87 /3.68 ^31%
Butter, salted, grade AA, stick . . . . . . . 2.80 /2.98 /3.13 ^11%
American processed cheese . . . . . . . . 3.69 /3.91 /4.14 ^12%
Cheddar cheese, natural. . . . . . . . . . . 3.76 /4.45 /4.95 ^31%
Ice cream, prepacked., bulk, reg.
(1/2 gal.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.66 /4.08 /4.28 ^17%
Fresh fruits and vegetables:
Apples, Red Delicious . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.82 /1.12 /1.18 ^43%
Bananas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.49 /0.53 /0.62 ^26%
Oranges, navel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.62 /0.91 /0.93 ^50%
Grapefruit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.58 /0.91 /0.91 ^56%
Grapes, Thompson seedless . . . . . . . . 2.36 /2.72 /2.46 ^ 4%
Lemons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.11 /2.05 /1.62 ^45%
Pears, Anjou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (NA) /1.27 /1.37 ^ 7%
Potatoes, white . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 /0.52 /0.68 ^94%
Lettuce, iceberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.85 /0.95 /0.88 ^ 3%
Tomatoes, field grown . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.57 /2.15 /1.73 ^10%
Processed fruits and vegetables:
Orange juice, frozen concentrate,
12 oz. can, per 16 oz. . . . . . . . . . . . 1.88 /2.53 /2.56 ^36%
Sugar and sweets:
Sugar, white, all sizes. . . . . . . . . . . . 0.41 /0.50 /0.53 ^29%
Sugar, white, 33-80 oz. pkg. . . . . . . . . 0.40 /0.48 /0.50 ^25%
Fats and oils:
Margarine, stick. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (NA) /1.01 /1.18 ^16%
Margarine, tubs, soft . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.84 /1.24 /1.57 ^86%
Peanut butter, creamy, all sizes . . . . . . 1.96 /1.88 /2.15 ^ 9%
Nonalcoholic beverages:
Coffee, 100% ground roast, all sizes . . . 3.21 /3.69 /(NA) ^14%
Other prepared foods:
Potato chips, per 16 oz. . . . . . . . . . . . 3.44 /3.65 /4.48 ^39%
Not Much Going On Today
Had a slow weekend. Went to a college football game on Saturday and had a great time. Then today just mucked around the home-place and did a lot of nothing. Then tonight we are having some grilled steak and steamed taters. I did do a little prepping today I got a new holster for my Walter P-22 and some more ammo. I can find it a lot better now and when I do I get what I can. More tomorrow and keep up the prepping!
Saturday, October 2, 2010
WE ARE SURVIVALISTS
I found this on-line years ago and liked it so I thought I would pass it on.
I found it at http://www.textfiles.com/survival/lfiweare.prn
WE ARE SURVIVALISTS
He who fails to prepare for the night, fails to prepare for the dawn.
I am a survivalalist and by nature a survivalist is an OPTIMIST. I do not have one pessimistic bone in my body. If what I just said sounds odd to you then you are not yet a survivalist and you do not understand the modern survivalist at all. It has been very difficult to communicate to the public and the mass communications media, the concept of an optimistic, hopeful survivalist. A fireman is a fireman, not because he believes everything will burn, but because he believes much can be saved. Doctors don't believe in death, they believe in life, and a survivalist is not a survivalist because he beleives everything must be destroyed and everyone must die, he believes that life and freedom can be saved, if people of good will are prepared. A fireman does not start fires, a doctor does not make disease and a survivalist does not make disaster. Crime, disease, war, revolution, fire, flood, periodic financial collapse and famine are the results of nature and the nature of man and unfortunately are not within the power of anyone on this earth to prevent. We all know that the sun will set each day, leaving us in darkness and we all know that warm summers give way to cold winters and that we can do nothing to keep the sun from setting out the cold winds from coming, does this make us pessimistic? I think not! So then why is the survivalist called a pessimist when he makes ready to face events that are just as much part of history and nature as the sunset and changing of the seasons. Another misconception is that survivalists are predicting world disaster.On the contrary, we seem to be the OPTIMISTIC MINORITY that is predicting world survival. We are hard pressed to find any well recommended historians,economists, political scientists, sociologists or military strategists thatcan come up with a scenario that gives even a fifty-fifty chance of avoiding a large scale catastrophe, yet we survivalist dare to be OPTIMISTIC about the future. We survivalists do not need to predict the probability of disater any more than we need to predict the sun setting. Those who critize survivalists, are like men who refuse to look at acalendar, in the hope that through self-imposed ignorance they can keep from aging another year. "You survivalists will be disappointed if we don't have a world cataclysm",here is another accusation that is pure B.S. and I could not think of a milder phrase to describe it. We survivalists have loved ones we don't want to seehurt or killed, we have homes we don't want to see destroyed, we are not fools to think that just because we are suvrvivalists a world cataclysm would be fun for us or the we would not experience danger, loss, hunger, injury, cold or even despair and death. We have spent time and money to improve our chances for survival and recovery from disaster, but we would have a great celebration if some day we could be assured that we had wasted our time. No, we will not be disappointed there is no disaster to survive, anymore than the Red Cross is disappointed when there are no floods and storms or the man who buys an insurance policy is disappointed when his house fails to burn down. It may be said that the survivalist would much prefer the pleasant (butunlikely) surprise of being wrong to the (probable) deadly rude awakening thatthe nonsurvivalist will face if he is wrong. So, you see the survivalist can not lose because his survival prepartions will be of value regardless of what the future has in store. In time of crisis, those who have not prepared to turn to each other, will turn on each other. It is most regrettable indeed, that many people consider survivalists as a threat and regard them with suspicion and even hostility. This attitude is logically indefensible and is rooted in the non survivalists own sense of fear and guilt. Subconsciously, the non survivalist may hate the survivalist for reminding him of how fragile his lifestyle is. Now, let's get the facts turned around right. THE MOST DANGEROUS PEOPLE IN AMERICA TODAY ARE THENONSURVIVALISTS. Every person who has not made provisions for surviving without food, water, fuel and other essential needs from the outside, is a mortal danger to his neighbors. What will a man do when he and his family are freezing, hungry, thirsty,sick and starving? He may ask or beg his neighbors for help, but when they have no extra fuel, food, water or medicine to give, will he just go back home to die with his wife and kids? What do you think? We survivalists who stock up on food and other supplies, now do a favor to society because what we now buy is replaced on the shelves so there will be that much more available in an emergency. We survivalists won't be looting and killing for food. We won't be a burden on the medical facilities or a danger to the police. Since we will be able to turn to each other, we will not need to turn on anyone and we maybe able to help at least some. Survival preparation should be regarded as a social obligation, one that every individual owes to his family and community and his nation. The non survivalist is simply a poor and irresponsible citizen. So the reality is, that survivalists are optimistic, self-reliant individuals, who cannot help but see the imperative of preparing for the worst possible events, while hoping sincerely, that they won't happen. Today's survivalist is an asset to his community and to the world and should be proud to be called SURVIVALIST.
I found it at http://www.textfiles.com/survival/lfiweare.prn
WE ARE SURVIVALISTS
He who fails to prepare for the night, fails to prepare for the dawn.
I am a survivalalist and by nature a survivalist is an OPTIMIST. I do not have one pessimistic bone in my body. If what I just said sounds odd to you then you are not yet a survivalist and you do not understand the modern survivalist at all. It has been very difficult to communicate to the public and the mass communications media, the concept of an optimistic, hopeful survivalist. A fireman is a fireman, not because he believes everything will burn, but because he believes much can be saved. Doctors don't believe in death, they believe in life, and a survivalist is not a survivalist because he beleives everything must be destroyed and everyone must die, he believes that life and freedom can be saved, if people of good will are prepared. A fireman does not start fires, a doctor does not make disease and a survivalist does not make disaster. Crime, disease, war, revolution, fire, flood, periodic financial collapse and famine are the results of nature and the nature of man and unfortunately are not within the power of anyone on this earth to prevent. We all know that the sun will set each day, leaving us in darkness and we all know that warm summers give way to cold winters and that we can do nothing to keep the sun from setting out the cold winds from coming, does this make us pessimistic? I think not! So then why is the survivalist called a pessimist when he makes ready to face events that are just as much part of history and nature as the sunset and changing of the seasons. Another misconception is that survivalists are predicting world disaster.On the contrary, we seem to be the OPTIMISTIC MINORITY that is predicting world survival. We are hard pressed to find any well recommended historians,economists, political scientists, sociologists or military strategists thatcan come up with a scenario that gives even a fifty-fifty chance of avoiding a large scale catastrophe, yet we survivalist dare to be OPTIMISTIC about the future. We survivalists do not need to predict the probability of disater any more than we need to predict the sun setting. Those who critize survivalists, are like men who refuse to look at acalendar, in the hope that through self-imposed ignorance they can keep from aging another year. "You survivalists will be disappointed if we don't have a world cataclysm",here is another accusation that is pure B.S. and I could not think of a milder phrase to describe it. We survivalists have loved ones we don't want to seehurt or killed, we have homes we don't want to see destroyed, we are not fools to think that just because we are suvrvivalists a world cataclysm would be fun for us or the we would not experience danger, loss, hunger, injury, cold or even despair and death. We have spent time and money to improve our chances for survival and recovery from disaster, but we would have a great celebration if some day we could be assured that we had wasted our time. No, we will not be disappointed there is no disaster to survive, anymore than the Red Cross is disappointed when there are no floods and storms or the man who buys an insurance policy is disappointed when his house fails to burn down. It may be said that the survivalist would much prefer the pleasant (butunlikely) surprise of being wrong to the (probable) deadly rude awakening thatthe nonsurvivalist will face if he is wrong. So, you see the survivalist can not lose because his survival prepartions will be of value regardless of what the future has in store. In time of crisis, those who have not prepared to turn to each other, will turn on each other. It is most regrettable indeed, that many people consider survivalists as a threat and regard them with suspicion and even hostility. This attitude is logically indefensible and is rooted in the non survivalists own sense of fear and guilt. Subconsciously, the non survivalist may hate the survivalist for reminding him of how fragile his lifestyle is. Now, let's get the facts turned around right. THE MOST DANGEROUS PEOPLE IN AMERICA TODAY ARE THENONSURVIVALISTS. Every person who has not made provisions for surviving without food, water, fuel and other essential needs from the outside, is a mortal danger to his neighbors. What will a man do when he and his family are freezing, hungry, thirsty,sick and starving? He may ask or beg his neighbors for help, but when they have no extra fuel, food, water or medicine to give, will he just go back home to die with his wife and kids? What do you think? We survivalists who stock up on food and other supplies, now do a favor to society because what we now buy is replaced on the shelves so there will be that much more available in an emergency. We survivalists won't be looting and killing for food. We won't be a burden on the medical facilities or a danger to the police. Since we will be able to turn to each other, we will not need to turn on anyone and we maybe able to help at least some. Survival preparation should be regarded as a social obligation, one that every individual owes to his family and community and his nation. The non survivalist is simply a poor and irresponsible citizen. So the reality is, that survivalists are optimistic, self-reliant individuals, who cannot help but see the imperative of preparing for the worst possible events, while hoping sincerely, that they won't happen. Today's survivalist is an asset to his community and to the world and should be proud to be called SURVIVALIST.
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